Chiang Mai, the Northern Rose, is a city of rich heritage. It was established 712 years ago as the capital of the Kingdom of Lanna, which literally means “million rice paddies.” A red brick wall and moat marks the capital of this ancient city, which is blessed by the auspicious Ping River. Once a farming community, Thailand’s second largest city has come a long way since its founding.

Off to the Zoo
This quaint northern city is an ideal destination for nature enthusiasts. The Chiang Mai Zoo, established as the city’s official zoo in 1977, spreads over 200 acres of plush greenery and houses over 8000 animals. Apart from containing the longest aquarium in the world, measuring an astounding 133 meters, the zoo also boasts an extensive 2.5-acre aviary that provides a natural habitat for various species of birds. We were ushered into the zoo’s monorail, which is the quickest and most leisurely way to view the park. From the comfort of the air-conditioned cab, we were treated to an aerial view of the zoo, and their impressive collections of flora and fauna.
Easily the highlight of my zoo visit was our trip down to the Giant Pandas. Named Chuang-Chuang and Lin-Huii, the male and female pandas were flown into the zoo from China. Upon their arrival in Chiang Mai Zoo they were also bestowed Thai names. Chuang-Chuang became known as Te-Wan, meaning heavenly people who have supernatural abilities, while Lin-Huii was nicknamed Te-Wi, or “angel”. To our delight, the pandas were playful and fully active when we visited their cool enclosures. Playing with their bamboo shoots and mischievously sliding down their wooden playground to scratch their backs, it seemed as though Te-Wan and Te-Wi were aware that they were the zoo’s stars and eagerly put forth an impressive performance.

The Secret Life of Elephants
Later that afternoon we made our way to the Secret Life of Mahout Training Centre. For those who prefer a closer encounter and a more personal relationship with animals, this is certainly the place to be. Mahout, meaning “Elephant Keeper” or “Elephant Driver,” are men and women donned in navy blue uniforms who train elephants to do extraordinary stunts. The camp also accepts guests, and foreigners often stay for several days to be taught how to train elephants.

The training of the mahout is remarkable: the elephants in this camp are unlike any other I’ve ever seen! At the command of their mahout, they kneel, lie down, or bow their head. My mahout instructed his elephant to stretch out his leg to provide a step for me to mount the enormous mammal. No platforms or seats here! I rode the elephant bareback, seated on the animal’s neck, clutching his giant ears for dear life. It’s an exhilarating ride, as my body swayed back and forth with every step the elephant took. The elephant was gentle and would willingly comply with whatever his mahout instructed, and together we made one round of their training field, with me taking in the lovely scenery from my elephants-eye perspective.

After taking several tourists on a stroll, the elephants converged in the center of the field. The mahout began to take out easels and paintbrushes. We gathered round my elephant, keen to see what his painting would look like. Clutching the brush in his trunk, he began to paint dark lines up and down the large sheet of paper. This was just about what I expected – an abstract painting from an elephant trained to put a brush on paper. But what happened next completely blew my mind! Carefully, the elephant began to dot the top of each line with yellow, and then orange paint, making little flower buds. Then he dabbed green paint under each bud. As he stepped back to reveal his work, we were all astounded at the piece of art he had made. Other, more experienced, elephants create even more elaborate paintings, such as an elephant’s silhouette or a landscape. Their talent is undeniable – my elephant paints better than I do!

Creatures of the Night
If you haven’t yet had your fi ll of nature and wildlife, you may cap your day as we did: by heading to Chiang Mai Night Safari. Open till 10:30 p.m. every day, the Night Safari’s eve ning ambience provides a unique zoo experience for chil dren and adults alike. Visitors may choose between three zones or may explore all three. The Predator Prowl and Sa vanna Safari Zones are 30-minute tram loops showcasing a variety of nocturnal animals. The Jaguar Trail Zone is a 1.2 km footpath for those who would like to exercise and take a walk around the park. After our full day, we, of course, chose to get off our feet and onto the tram.

Sitting in the tram, riding through the dark, is a very zen experience. In between the animal enclosures, when the tram lights are off, my senses piqued and I became very aware of the faint ambient light and the sounds of the forest. Since many of the animals have a wide space to roam around in, it was also fun playing hide and seek, spotting whatever specie the guide has called out. I was excited to see hyenas, hunt ing dogs, and vultures, which are not commonly found in other zoos. Most of the animals, being nocturnal creatures, were also very active. We saw kangaroos hopping away, their little joeys poking their heads out of the pouches, while the dingoes nearby paced back and forth to observe what would have been their prey in the wild.

True to their Thai nature, the guides were very hospi table and warm. We also had the good fortune to sit in the tram of a comedian, who joked about the zoo’s beloved fe male rhino’s big behind. As a world-class facility, the Chiang Mai Night Zoo has a regular schedule of trams with English speaking guides who provide a wide array of knowledge on the animals in the park.

Exploring Thai Heritage
Apart from natural resources, Thailand is a country also rich in culture and traditions. In the Mae Rim District, I met fi ve of Thailand’s most fascinating indigenous tribes; most notably, the long neck Palong tribe. Women wrap golden rings around their necks to elongate their silhouettes, in tribute to their standard of beauty. What is very impressive about the Mae Rim village is that aside from being a tourist site, each native house contains an impressive display of handmade products for sale. The indigenous tribes weave, sew, carve, and then sell their wares. Situated in a gorgeous green rice fi eld with a pristine landscape behind them, Mae Rim village promotes farming and handicrafts as a way of sustaining the indigenous groups. Proceeds from their sales contribute to the health care and education of the children in the village. I loved shopping in such a natural outdoor setting, knowing that my purchases will lead to better lives for people who are proud of their cultural heritage.

They say you have not been to Chiang Mai until you have seen Wat Prathard Doi Suthep. Indeed, lying 3,520 feet above sea level, its view of the city on a clear day is breathtaking. The temple was built in 1383 and is said to house the holy relics of Buddha. We took a railcar, which is something like a diagonal elevator, to arrive at the top of the temple. Stepping out, I was immediately struck by the beauty of the intricate golden carvings of the temple’s façade. Rounding the corner to the viewpoint, it was fascinating for me as a Catholic to observe locals who were there to worship, ringing the large bells that lined the walls of the temple.

Going back to the entrance of the temple, I took off my shoes, as is requested for those who enter the holy place, to see the golden bell-shaped pagoda, or chedi. The chedi lies in a courtyard of marble, with its walls adorned with various images and statues of Buddha. Several worshippers were walking around the giant golden bell, holding a lotus flower between their pressed-together palms. Inquiring about the practice, I was told that those with intentions could circle the chedi twice with a fl ower to pray for their wish to be granted. Some foreigners also joined the locals in offering their intentions through this practice.

On the way down, we decided to take the scenic view. That comprised of 290 steps leading down to the exit. The fl ight of steps is fl anked by dragons, whose colorful glass and ceramic scales glisten in the sunlight. As you make your way down, you are treated to bazaar stalls full of thousands of Buddha images. There are also bags and accessories galore – I even bought 8 embroidered bags for 100 Baht! That’s little more than 3 dollars – an impulse buy, but at that price, certainly well worth it. Other stalls sold refreshments and I bought coconut juice served in a tiny shell. The cool, sweet juice was the perfect refreshment from the tiring journey down.

Shopper’s Paradise
At night, the main thoroughfare of Chiang Mai transforms into a mélange of sounds, lights, and bright colors. Vendors line the streets, peddling everything from antique Thai puppets to handmade fl ower soap carvings, and shirts emblazoned with the quintessential Singha and Chang Beer logos. Even for a non-shopper like me, exploring the seemingly endless labyrinth of side streets and discovering unique crafts, fashions, and accessories were an absolute thrill. Every street held something new, introducing such items as Heineken cans that were transformed into a tuk-tuk miniature replica or barrettes made of Juicy Fruit Gum. This is a bargain lover’s haven, where fi ve dollars is an expensive price to pay for a piece of clothing. There is nothing quite like getting a good deal and Chiang Mai’s night market is full of them!

Toting my camera around, I had an endless number of fascinating subjects. On one side, a group of women ven- dors converged to play a game of cards, passing the time in between sales. On the other, a little girl was playing with a compact, checking her refl ection in the mirror and smiling at the people who stopped to see her mother’s wares. Apart from the animated characters of the Chiang Mai locals, my camera lens was also busy darting about taking in the color- ful shades and various shapes of bangles, lanterns, Christ- mas ornaments and much more.

Around midnight, my friends and I realized that all our walking had emptied our stomachs, and we were eager to look for a snack. Feeling adventurous, we eschewed the typi- cal McDonald’s for more endemic cuisine. Our venture into street food was not only appetizing, but practical as well. A small bowl of noodles cost 25 Baht while the larger size cost 35 Baht, which is approximately equivalent to a dollar. On each table, condiments of chili powder, fresh chilies and sug- ar were made available, so that you could fl avor your soup according to your own taste. Diners are asked to choose from a variety of noodles: vermicelli, rice or fl at. The noodles are tossed in a bowl with fi sh and squid balls, vegetables, and hot broth. It was the most delightful way to end the evening by simply sitting on plastic chairs in the street, taking in the vibrancy of Chiang Mai’s nightlife, chatting with friends, and eating a delicious bowl of Thai noodle soup.

Next Time Around

Waking up the next morning, realizing I had reached the end of my trip, I came to the conclusion that three days in Chiang Mai is not enough. Thailand’s second largest city is bustling with life and activities for all kind of travelers. I would love to attend the Loy Krathong festival in November, when thousands of paper lanterns are launched in the air and offertory boxes are fl oated down the Ping River. There is also another activity that I am dying to try. The Flight of the Gibbon is an ecotour that takes you through a 1500 year-old rainforest through treetop canopies. Imagine zipping along a line with the forest fl oor far beneath you! There are even two-day programs devised with rock climbing, white wa- ter rafting, or mountain biking. I’ve taken home fl yers and brochures to remind me what enticing activities await my return to Lanna’s capital.

Apart from trying out new things, I would greatly en- joy going back to spend more time exploring the places I’ve already been to. Maybe purchase one of those elephant paintings that I missed the chance to buy or even just lounge about and take more pictures of the Thai people and their way of life. I’ve discovered another destination that is full of character and endless opportunities of excitement for trav- elers of all sorts. I can’t wait to have the chance to return! And who knows, perhaps I will see you there.