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Batanes

Stormy, rough waters and unpredictable.These are probably the initial thoughts of city folks whenever Batanes is mentioned as a travel destination.

Pessimistic as it seems, I always wanted to go there to witness the landscape and life of the Ivatans. So when the opportunity came this summer I didn’t hesitate to pack my bag and take a two-hour plane ride just to get there.

Most of my journey would take me to the island of Batan, considered the heart of the eco-tourism of this small archipelago. One of its tourist attractions is a number of lighthouses that were constructed. Primarily built to guide seafarers at night, these structures also provide a foreign feel to the area. Their strategic locations are also a plus factor for visitors as I could see the island from end to end.

My next stop is a century old stone house that continues to withstand the changing of the times. Built in 1887, this dwelling place is a heritage site and is protected by the Department of Tourism. Yet I wasn’t focused on this man made structure but rather the person who dwelled in it. A woman probably in her mid 70s has been constantly photographed and seen in photosites but not vividly recognized. Being introduced to her is a joy and an honor. If stone houses symbolized the northern outpost of the country, Florestida Estrella on the other hand is probably the face of Batanes.

Unlike white sand beaches found in the Philippines, Batanes has a different kind of coastline, one of which is Boulder beach. This boulder-hemmed shore is a reminder of the power of nature. With the constant splashes of water, large quantities of rocks with the passing of time are smoothened as if an artist made it. While another beach situated on the south side of the island has a distinctive characteristic. The water is knee deep but what makes it special is that I was stepping into corrals and that aquatic life was within my reach. I was also fascinated with the skill of Fly-net fishermen who were a constant figure in these beaches.

Batanes is truly a unique destination with a mixture of old and new. Structures such as whitewashed, low, well-proportioned churches present in every town still stand today. I was also able to visit the Songsong ruins, a ghost barangay where roofless stone houses were destroyed by tidal waves in the 1950s. Another attraction that I was fond off was the modern and European style houses in the Abad family compound. The house of former National Artist Pacita Abad is truly a wonderful sight. To honor her, paintings and accomplishments are open for public viewing. With a great view of the ocean and clear sky, this is definitely my dream home. An unusual attraction in the Island of Batan is the Honesty store. As the name implies, their system of trade works like this: buy a product, leave you payment and get your change. I doubt it if it would work in the city.

Almost one-half of the land area of Batanes is made up of hills and mountains. Though transfer from one destination to another takes ample time, when I reached Marlboro country it was well worth it. There was a grazing hill filled with cows as if they had just fallen out of the sky. Plus the cool breeze and balmier climate made the experience worthwhile. I didn’t mind spending hours just looking out to sea or mile long grassland because this part of island made you relax and meditate. After an hour of travel I reached the famous Rolling hills. It was picturesque and a landscape photographers dream site. Every slope made the area timeless and with the sun setting it made it more dramatic.

I also had a chance to visit the neighboring island of Sabtang, which is a half hour boat ride away. The northern part of the island featured a residential area made up of stone-houses. Since storm season was a couple of months away, these people were stocking food by sun-drying the fish that they had caught. What I was most pleased is that they welcomed guests with a smile and they seemed happy seeing outsiders in their small community.

As I readied myself for the trip back to Manila, I realized 4 days ain’t enough. I love to come back someday and explore more of the neighboring islands and culture of the Ivatans. Now If somebody asked me what I think about Batanes? I will simply answer “breathtaking".

 
 

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