An hour of a layover, a connecting flight from Changi to Denpasar, obligatory security luggage checks and eight hours total in transit, were what I endured to find what everyone fondly calls 'paradise.' How I got here, as I would learn in the next 36 hours would become irrelevant, as I found all that is beautiful about Bali, no matter if it were in a frenzy.
Day 1
6:00 AM Introduction to Bali bounties
The day began quite early than I would want it to be. The strict itinerary provided a glimpse of how Balinese cooking can only be successful when made with the freshest of ingredients. The rewards for waking up early: fresh vegetable deliveries and the sight of fresh catch, fish of all sizes, in bright colors of green, red or dulled gray, still squirming, along the shores of Jimbaran port. Buyers and sellers walked up to each other with energetic shouts of pricing and haggling. It was just like any other usual day in the market.
It was quite exciting to be introduced to various spices and other kitchen staples found in most Balinese households. Being fond of spicy food, I was immediately drawn to the section showcasing different kinds of chili. There were red bell pepper-like chili, which I was told to be milder than the others, and a thumb sized, thinner red version, apparently the hottest of them all.
8:10 AM Breakfast pack
A warung is a small restaurant hut or a food stall. I had been warned that an upset stomach was common among first-timers of this particular breakfast pack, tightly wrapped in banana leaves. Dismissing the warning with a smile, I unwrapped my breakfast and was pleasantly surprised to find rice with an interesting lot of toppings. There were nasi kuning (yellow rice), mie goreng (fried noodles), kering tempe (fried fermented soy beans with peanuts and chili), ayam sambal (Chicken with dried shrimp in chili paste) and serundeng (spiced desiccated coconut with peanuts and garlic).
As I wolfed down my nasi kuning, I was told a little trivia about the Balinese staple, known to the Balinese as a gift of the gods. Rice is integral to Balinese cooking. Hinduism, the most prevalent religion among the Balinese, teaches that the Lord Vishnu is responsible for creating and bringing rice to Earth. Indra, king of the gods, has been appointed to teach people how to grow and cultivate rice. Until today, cultivation practices are very much elaborate and tied to religious symbols and rituals. As rice is considered to be a gift of the gods, the Hindus treat it with reverence and served in all meals of the day.
9:05 AM Cooking lessons
Get acquainted with Balinese cooking techniques from Heinz van Holzen, the proprietor of award-winning Bumbu Bali Restaurant in Ubud. I signed up for half-day classes where I learned quite a number of tips not only for Balinese cooking, but practical kitchen preparations as well. The final task for the day was to sample all that our group haf been slaving in the kitchen for throughout the day. Some of the dishes I enjoyed the most were the nasi kuning with satay ayam (Chicken skewers in peanut sauce). The satay was grilled at just the right temperature and a precise time at which it would be moist and tender. The peanut sauce was thicker than I would usually have it, bolder in flavor as it had a hint of gingery-tanginess and toasted garlic shavings on top.
We concluded the class with hot Balinese coffee, which was strong, earthy, and yet wonderfully light as it did not leave an acidic feel in the stomach. It was a perfect match to an exquisite Balinese dessert sampler of black rice pudding and creamy pumpkin cake. My day couldn't get any better than this.
3:00 PM Beach time
Coming from quite a hearty lunch, I was worried about how my tummy might bulge out in my bikini when I hit the Bale's beach club. But then, there are no dress codes, just one itty bit of a requirement: sun block. While 3:00 PM may be the safer time for outdoor activities, it wouldn't hurt to slather on safety.
As I strolled along the beach, I enjoyed the feel of the sand on my toes. I watched the waves roll from the midsection of the fluid expanse of the sea and listened to their almost rhythmic splash at the shore. Some locals approached me to offer surfing lessons or kayak rentals, which I politely declined due to time constraints. Instead, I picked a great spot to get my tan on, read a novel, and sip a Piña Colada. I eagerly awaited a stunning sunset, and was rewarded with a spectacle of beautiful shades
5:55 PM Crystal healing
What drew me to the Crystal Healing Hot Stone therapy was its intriguing reference to crystals instead of volcanic stones. The menu description read, "semi-precious stones including Jade, Jasper, Aventurine or Obsidian were to be heated to address specific issues with your 'being' spiritually, emotionally, mentally, and physically." I was immediately sold to the idea and booked myself an appointment at The Bale Spa.
The Crystal Healing massage therapy began with the therapist washing my feet in water with flower petals. She asked if I had problem areas like body pains or injuries so they could be treated with care. Crystals were heated like regular volcanic stones and stroked on certain tension-filled areas on my back and legs (which practically meant my entire body). The rest of the 60-minute massage therapy became a blur as my relaxation slowly turned into an extended cat nap. When I rose back to consciousness, I felt refreshed and the soreness on my back seemed to have magically vanished. Whether it was the crystals, the heat or the pressure, I wasn't quite sure, but the massage worked wonders.
8:20 PM Authentic Balinese Dinner
Eager to sample even more Balinese food delights, I headed to Raja restaurant in Nusa Dua Hotel where we were welcomed by the friendly Chef Darren Lauder. His philosophy on Balinese cuisine has endeared him to many, if not, all of his staff. He shared that when they were starting out Raja, he worked closely with locals who taught him how to cook Balinese food. The chef admired the painstaking preparations and the very passionate manner in which everything is made. While ingredients were quite simple, Balinese flavors are surprisingly bold and infused with strong spices and natural oils. Having gained greater respect for the culture and the cuisine, Chef Darren made sure that everything served at Raja will be prepared using only ingredients and techniques specified in recipes handed down to him by the locals.
Learning about this got me all excited. The highlight of the night was the bebek betutu.. The dish is marinated in a blend of 16 Balinese spices and slow-cooked for over 4 hours to bring out the oils from the duck's skin which is infused with spices and herbs while wrapped in palm leaves. The leaves add a very earthy flavor to the dish which reduces the game-y taste. It went very well with steamed white rice, fresh sambal, and a glass of Chef's recommended red wine from Chile.
10:07 PM Nightcap and music
Before going back to rest in my villa, I was introduced to the Bale's version of the Mojito. Refreshingly simple, the Bale Mojito had a very subtle taste of Rhum and more portions of lime juice in it. Instead of the regular mint leaves, this Mojito was served with juicy and jelly-like passion fruit which added to the citrus flavor from the lime. A cold Mojito on hand while listening to chill out tunes on a sofa bed - nothing could have gotten in the way of just a perfect evening.
Day 2
9:25 AM Breakfast in bed
In a perfect world, whenever I hear my alarm go off, I hit the shower almost instantaneously; but being in Bali (and having been awake at 6 AM the day before…) made me feel licensed to hit snooze at least 15 more minutes. After snoozing, waking up clad in soft sheets at The Bale, is a luxury I couldn't quite let go of yet, so I decided to order breakfast in my room. Delightful and tasty, the three-egg omelette with sausages, bacon, sautéed Shitake mushrooms, and potatoes were exactly where I wanted them to be: on my lap, in my room.
11:00 AM Shopping
Kuta is busy, trendy and very fashion forward. With very narrow streets to navigate, and maybe a few kilometers' stretch of stores to inspect, I strongly recommend going shopping in comfy sandals or shoes. Boutiques are filled with very interesting pieces of Batik patterned textile, intricate silver jewelry, hand-woven baskets, and local designer clothing at very reasonable prices.
Seminyak offers paintings and other unique local pieces and handicrafts for the home. I was delighted to find a store filled with an extensive collection of wooden and leather bangles as well as beaded belts, necklaces, and earrings. I found that almost all prices were negotiable when I uttered the magic word: tawar (Bahasa for discount). Whenever I was able to haggle, I made it a point to express my appreciation and say with a huge smile and a slight bow, terima kasih (thank you).
2:12 PM Late lunch
On our way back to the Bale's Faces restaurant, my very accommodating guides insisted that I try babi goleng, a sampler of pork cooked in 4 ways: deep fried skin, sweet and spicy floss, roasted, and barbecued. The babi goring made for a great appetizer as I waited for the real line up of courses for lunch at Faces. I immensely enjoyed the pan seared tuna with arugula, a very light salad of olives and tomatoes with citrus vinaigrette that balanced the flavors in perfect unison. I paired this salad with an energizing tall glass of orange juice.
4:00 PM Art exploration
Aside from the world-renowned beaches, Bali is also recognized for its artistry. Ubud is a living gallery that can attest to this. Its streets are filled with intricate wood and stone carvings, paintings, clay pots, and handicrafts. Balinese art has grown from the work of Hindu-Javanese artisans who found their way in Bali during the late 13th century. Ubud and its villages have since then been made the center of Balinese art.
Museums and art galleries abound in Ubud. Among the most popular is the Blanco Renaissance Museum (Museum Blanco), which features the oil paintings of Antonio Blanco, a Spanish painter who married a famous Balinese dancer, named Ni Ronji in the early 1950s. Blanco's paintings portray Balinese life and culture through the vivid facial expressions of his subjects. While his Erotica series, featuring nude Balinese women, made some of the visitors giggle, I marveled at how well his strokes evoked these women's feelings while posing for Blanco. He portrayed them smiling, dancing, proud, beautiful, and sometimes mischievous. His paintings might just have been the earliest expressions of girl power.
6:45 PM Home-cooked dinner
Not exactly a hole in the wall, but more of an expanded warung, this restaurant serves meals with a home-cooked, comfort food feel to them. It was hard to select what to order from an exhaustive list of Balinese and Indonesian dishes. I narrowed down my choices and picked my favorites: seafood nasi goreng (fried rice with stir-fried seafood), chicken satay and tom yang soup (sweet and sour soup with shrimp).
As I waited for my dinner, I looked around and noticed that Waroeng Kampoeng was filled with more locals than tourists and I just knew that the food would be nothing less than superb. True enough, Waroeng Kampoeng exceeded my expectations. The servings were quite hefty at very affordable prices. As for the taste, flavors were very strong and well-pronounced that I was convinced that 'hot and spicy' wasn't just a prerequisite to their cuisine - it is a way of life.
8:00 PM Traditional Balinese massage
While I could have spent the remaining hours of my stay partying at Kuta, or listening to Jazz bands in Sanur, my body was begging me for some R&R before an early flight out the next day. I found myself taking a breather at the Nusa Dua Spa. Taking heed of my guide's recommendation, I opted for the traditional Balinese massage which applied long strokes and pressure on the muscles.
The smell of frangipani oil, (Bali's national flower) and the gradual stream of calmness and relief from the massage brought me mental pictures of how the last 30 plus hours have been. Bali is one of those places that grow on you and make you feel really bad about packing your bags. The moral lesson: stay longer than 36 hours, a week, a month, a year. However longer or shorter, Bali is a sunny paradise waiting to be explored, enjoyed and conquered.
