|
I Left My Heart in Bohol
Perhaps it was because I was exceptionally emotional that day. Possibly because I was hormonal – an unavoidable fact of being female. But as I alighted from the river boat, on the banks of the Loboc River, and onto the floating balsa or raft, I began to tear up. As men, women, and children on board the balsa sang happy folk songs and danced to the tune of their own ukuleles, I found myself surreptitiously wiping away a tear or two. Perhaps it was the hormones. But perhaps it was the deep and moving magic of Bohol. A Blessed Land I am now under the impression that when the seas and lands were created, and islands were set apart, the Divine Being added a little extra tender, loving care to the island of Bohol. Located approximately 626 kilometers south of Manila, this island province is blessed with a beautiful countryside, gently rolling terrain, mountainous interiors which are home to exquisite (and even rare) flora and fauna, and stunning vistas. Even the weather seems to have been favored: typhoons and earthquakes are rare in this province, due to its geographical location. With the expert guidance of charismatic Boholano Chito Vano, we set out to take in the Bohol countryside in all its blessed beauty. An adventure not easily done in a day, given all there is to see and do in this province. Life is in the Blood Our first stop was the Blood Compact Commemorative Shrine in Tagbilaran City. Built by National Artist Napoleon Abueva, the sculpture stands atop a cliff, overlooking the azure waters of the Bohol Sea. It was built to commemorate the blood compact in 1565 between the chieftain of Bohol, Datu Sikatuna, and Spanish explorer, Miguel Lopez de Legazpi. This blood compact bore witness to the friendship between two races, and was a testament to Spain's respect towards Bohol as a Republic. To this day, the treaty is marked by a big local celebration known as the Sandugo Festival, which is central to the legacy and culture of every Boholano. Set in Stone Bohol is indeed a land steeped in history, and much of this history is, well, "set in stone." Beautiful old churches, built in Hispanic times, are to be found all throughout the different towns. Among these are the Church of St. Monica (patroness of battered housewives) in Albuquerque, the-Gothic inspired Church of the Assumption in Dauis, and the Loboc Church along the Loboc River. The oldest of Bohol's churches is the Baclayon Church, founded by the Jesuits as a mission in 1595. The current church structure was completed in 1727. Locals used coral stone blocks, cemented together with limestone, sea mud, and millions of egg whites. The impressive exterior, which includes a massive bell tower, porticos, and several arches (additions by the Recollects), is matched by an equally beautiful classically inspired interior. Inside the church is a dungeon, where "natives" who violated the laws of the Roman Catholic Church were said to have been punished. Beside the church is an old convent, which is home to centuries-old religious relics, including a statue of the Virgin Mary that is said to have been a gift from Catherine Queen of Aragon, as well as various items said to have been owned by St. Ignatius of Loyola. Sweet Spot Almost directly behind the Baclayon Church is a sweet spot, which in itself is near legend. Osang's Bakery has been making yummy sweet treats for over a century. The construction of the Baclayon Church posed a problem: what to do with all the egg yolks? Small bakeries like Osang's baked the egg yolks into tortas or sweet tortes, pastels, cookies and such. One of their most popular products today is the broas, elongated egg cookies which are topped with a crispy sugary coating and melt almost as soon as you put them in your mouth. Each cookie is meticulously hand-turned, and baked to perfection on thin slats of hardwood, over hardwood coals. Bohol is also known for its peanut-based cookies and goodies, like Peanut Kisses, peanut pastels, and other delectable delicacies sure to satisfy your sweet tooth. All Along the Watchtower Driving across the Bohol countryside is a visual treat. Lush greenery, quaint homes, old ancestral houses, are just some of the many interesting sights. Among the sights that caught my eye were the many stone watchtowers, like the Panglao Watchtower. These towering structures are found by the roadsides, the waysides, beside churches, and along the riverbanks. Bohol's main city and capital, Tagbilaran, derives its name from two local words tago (to hide) and bilaan (king). Literally, the name means "to hide the king." When pirates and marauders would attempt to invade the province, the king or chieftain would be hidden in different locations. The many watchtowers and bell towers served as lookouts. Loboc-Love The town of Loboc is perhaps one of the most blessed towns of Bohol. It is home to the famous Bohol tarsiers. It is where you find the lovely Loboc River. It is a musical, magical, lyrical town, where every member of the family sings and plays at least two instruments (it is home to the acclaimed Loboc Children's Choir). Our first stop in Loboc was Neria's Tarsier Home. I call it a home because the tarsiers are part of her family. Neria shares her home with 21 of these super-cute, wide-eyed, incredibly small furry friends. Each of them has a name, and if you have time, Neria will "introduce" you to them. I met Noreene, the "diva" of the family, having been featured in a few local advertisements. I also met Chitamae, named after our guide, Chito. I bade my goodbyes to my newfound friends and headed for the Loboc River for the river cruise. We set off from the Loay Bridge onboard a floating restaurant. There was an air of festivity and fun as a sumptuous Filipino buffet lunch was served along with folk-singing from a two-man band. Along the riverbanks are several floating rafts or balsas. By night, the Loboc River is transformed into a virtual water-world of color with lights on the banks casting their changing purple, blue, green, and yellow reflections on the water. The Loboc Church, lit up in soft purple hues, was also quite a sight. Majestic Mahoganies I was already beginning to wonder if I could possibly take in any more beauty in just one afternoon when we entered the Bilar Man-Made Forest. This two-kilometer stretch of densely planted mahogany trees creates a wondrous kaleidoscope of verdant foliage, with sunlight streaming in through the canopy of leaves. Planted in 1959, the majestic mahogany trees stretch up into the heavens, painting an awe-inspiring, almost surreal picture. Different species of trees and giant ferns are also to be found alongside the mahogany trees. A Tale of Giants and Lovers I was barely done with my "oohs" and "aahhs" over the Bilar Forest upon reaching our next stop, the famed Chocolate Hills. One word to describe this unusual geological formation of at least 1, 268 individual mounds? Breathtaking! There are several legends about these hills, my favorites of which involve a territorial dispute between two giants (who hurled dirt, sand, and stones at each other, inadvertently forming the hills), and a love story involving a young giant and a mortal. It was said that the giant outlived the mortal, and his tears of grief solidified and formed the hills. The most widely accepted scientific theory involves the weathering of marine limestones on top of an impermeable layer of clay. The hills turn brown in the dry season, giving them the appearance of chocolate. As I stood atop the lookout, which is 200-plus steps up in the air, chills ran down my spine. There is a spiritual, magical aspect about these hills, and one would have to be so jaded not to feel it. It may be due to the energy released by the limestone crystals within the hills. Then again, it may be the mark of divinity that I had come to see all over Bohol. Give Me Back My Heart After Chocolate Hills, we stopped in at the Simply Butterflies Conservation Center for a quick tour. I was impressed by many things: the wide collection of butterfly species (including one that releases chocolate-scented pheromones!), the quaint grounds, and the extensive knowledge of the guides (most are graduates of Etymology). It was already late at night when we reached our gorgeous resort, the Amarela Resort in Panglao (which is a lovely, rustic Mediterranean-inspired gem of a resort). As I lay my weary – but happy – head on my pillow, a million and one reasons for me to return to Bohol popped into my mind. I had not gone diving in the crystal-clear waters of the beautiful Bohol Sea. I had yet to visit the Bohol Bee Farm. So many old churches were yet to be explored. River-rafting, bungee-jumping and rappelling awaited at the Danao Sports Center. So many reasons, perhaps the most important being that I may have misplaced my heart. I think I may have left it somewhere on the banks of the Loboc River. Or perhaps along the countryside. Maybe in the depths of the Bilar Forest or at the foot of one of the Chocolate Hills. Who knows – a tarsier may have even run away with it. Perhaps Christmas time, which is also infused with that touch of divine magic, may be a good time for me to search for it, for I will eventually need it back. In the meantime, magical, mystical, beautiful Bohol has taken it captive. |
||||
|
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
