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Captivated by KL
To be perfectly honest, I knew very little about Kuala Lumpur, or Malaysia in general, prior to this recent trip. Not that I'm under any pretense that I'm now some kind of expert. But what I knew more or less could be summed up with their very successful tourism slogan: Truly Asia. That, and Michelle Yeoh and the Petronas Towers. It was not my first time. I had a wisp-thin stopover in KL half a decade ago where literally all I did was buy a silent Malaysian comic, have dinner at Petaling Street, watch a football game on TV with some rowdy Europeans at my hostel, and pass out before having to head for the airport. Thus I welcomed the opportunity to see this city again, but with actual intent and a conveniently pre-arranged itinerary to maximize my time. We wasted none of it. Upon exiting KLIA we were immediately taken to a restaurant nearby called Downtown, proclaiming "Chinese Muslim Cuisine." It was 7PM and the photographer Jomel and I were famished. KLIA is a good 40 minutes away from the city proper by highway, so a meal was an excellent idea. We downed copious amounts of Chinese tea and watermelon juice, along with some delicious honey chicken pandan, vegetables swimming with garlic, and a ridiculously good soup that had chicken, seafood, seaweed, mushroom, and an egg. That's all the major food groups, isn't it? There was also curry fish but it was much too spicy for my tastes so I left it to Jomel to tear it apart with gusto. Which he did, with the unabashed hunger of a Filipino male. This is what we were: hungry men. During this time we learned that Malaysians tend to have late dinners, around 9PM. We also learned that they do not like using fresh milk unless drank as is. They prefer condensed milk. And we were introduced to their fascination/obsession with Milo and Horlicks. From five-star hotels to your nearest street vendor, these drinks are always on the menu. Though they usually just add water, which confused me because then it just tasted like chocolate- or malt-flavored water. Then I remembered they don't like fresh milk. Sated, we began our drive to the city proper, re-energized and digesting merrily in the coaster van. Our first stop was Petaling Street, which is basically their Chinatown. A long street with booths set up in the middle, there are also actual brick-and-mortar stores on the sides. Alleys branch off like arteries and there you'll find the eateries and restaurants. Like most Chinatowns the world over, it's packed to the gills with imitation goods and souvenirs. Always bustling, it's actually rare to find proper Malaysians there unless they're hawking their wares. Most of the shoppers you see are tourists. Watches, bags, toys, clothes, shoes, videos, CDs; you name it, there's a nook and cranny on Petaling where it can be found. It hadn't changed much from the last time I was there. I even passed by the restaurant I ate at five years ago, unforgettable for its logo of a chicken in boxing attire. We then went to a spot known for its unobstructed view of the Petronas Towers, an intersection near the Kuala Lumpur City Centre. Other coaster vans and taxis would stop and camera-wielding tourists would alight to get their shots of the tallest twin towers in the world. It was late enough that we caught the Towers' lights being turned off, which was a sight to see because they do it gradually, in stages, not like a candle being snuffed out. We took this as our cue. Though we expected to finally check into our hotel, we actually had another last item on the itinerary for our first evening there: Jalan Alor. Jalan Alor is basically a whole street of food kiosks and restaurants, that apparently never shuts down. It also used to be the red light district of KL. I'd heard of the place but never been, so I was interested to see it. When we arrived it was still alive with activity; you wouldn't have guessed it was close to midnight. Many people were still there, eating and chatting away, possibly from the nearby Bukit Bintang Walk. Restaurants lined both sides of the street with their tables and chairs spilling generously onto the road proper, cars weaving their best in the remaining lane (it's a one-way street, thankfully). Hawker stands offered different kinds of cuisine, from Thai to Vietnamese. I was actually fascinated by the architecture of the apartments above, rendered almost invisible by the bright lights of the restaurant signs, which tended to be entire menus as tarp billboards. They were '70s designs and looked almost modular. It was also a treat to see some of the restaurants' cooks grilling outside on the sidewalk itself, smoke billowing away to the tune of sizzling fat. "Steamboats," or small trucks with various steamed food items, catered to those not necessarily seeking a full-course meal. We sat down for a beer before calling it a night and ordered what was described to us as "rice crackers." When we took a bite we realized it was a less salty version of the Filipino kropek. And finally, we got to our hotel, plugged everything that needed recharging, and promptly passed out. Fit for a King After breakfast the following morning we lit off for the King's Palace. Alas, the King was not home, as evidenced by the flag being absent. You can't actually go to the palace, you can only see it from afar. From the gate, to be more specific. From the ornately-wrought gates you can see the road leading up to the King's Palace but not much else. Tourists thus amuse themselves with photo opportunities with the guards out front, which call to mind the famous unmoving sentries at Buckingham Palace. There's two standing guards and two mounted ones, and they're not as strict with the non-interaction. The horses, particularly, seem to appreciate the attention. We then proceeded to Thean Hou, one of Malaysia's oldest Chinese temples. A majestic sight, it's a huge structure with many levels. Outside there is a kind of zodiac garden, with 12 statues depicting the various animals of Chinese astrology. Our tour guide Sarah discloses that it's a particularly busy temple, not just because of its attraction to tourists but because it also houses a marriage bureau. The entire lower level is something like a souvenir shop, and there is a central hall that can be used for special occasions. The details on the roofs are spectacular, with many small figures adorning the edges. Many people bring fruit offerings to the three goddesses of the temple, and burn joss sticks. There is a tortoise pond to the side, filled with many tortoises, some of them quite large. It's something to see, and a smell to take in. We proceeded to Merdeka Square or Independence Square, which boasts the world's tallest flagpole at 100 meters' height. As our luck would have it, a Bollywood film was being shot right then and there! We stopped to watch the proceedings, as naturally it was a dance sequence between the main amorous couple. To our surprise we were told that almost 80% of Bollywood films are now shot in Malaysia because it turns out to be much more expensive when shot in India, and because the crews are not bothered/harrassed by the citizens like they are back home. We decided to return in the evening for a better shot of the Sultan Abdul Samad building across the street. Heading to Central Market we passed a statue of a pitcher plant, a replica of the same pitcher plant somewhere in the jungles of Malaysia that is the world's biggest plant. Sarah then informed me that Malaysia is also home to the world's oldest tree and the world's biggest flower, which is carnivorous. Central Market is a level up from Petaling, in that you will actually be able to find real goods, not just imitation ones. What you'll find a lot of, actually, are affordable art and souvenirs, as well as some native batik clothes. Paintings, tapestries, and small to mid-sized sculptures are plentiful as well. This is where we got most of our souvenirs and pasalubong. We then proceeded to Starhill Gallery's Visual Arts Awards exhibit, taking in some of the best and brightest in Malaysian modern art. It was nice to see that there are a number of sensibilities at play, using a variety of mediums, not unlike what you'd see at a modern art gallery here. There's a range in the expressions, as well, from satire to political to classic stylization. My favorite piece was Ayesha Zulkifly's "This Is What I Stand For," a single piece of paper out of which was cut out an intricate flock of birds escaping a broken birdcage. After a slight breather we set out for KL Tower. One of the tallest communication towers in the world, while technically shorter than the Petronas Towers, its observation deck has a higher elevation than the Skybridge of the Petronas. It affords a spectacular view of the city, the Petronas Towers prominently on display. To our delight, the binoculars are free and you can actually look into the office windows of nearby and even far away buildings. Helpful charts show which buildings of note to watch out for. We got to the observation deck at just the right time, as the day was turning to night, and so we got to watch the city transform itself into a brilliant sea of gleaming light and reflective surfaces. Dinner was at another level of the KL Tower, the revolving restaurant. Though the décor leaves a bit to be desired, if you've got a good table you're not going to be looking at the insides much. It takes an hour for a full revolution so your average dinner will mean you get to see the full 360-degree view of the city. There's a bar for Malay food, one for Western food, and finally a dessert bar well-stocked with ice cream and assorted cakes and jellies, as well as fruit. They even have their own version of Ramon Jacinto at the piano. We went crazy for the Norwegian salmon and the oysters fresh from New Zealand, and helped ourselves to slices of guava and watermelon. It's the kind of fancy restaurant you reserve for a special occasion, as during our meal it seems there were three birthday announcements, two anniversaries, and one graduation. Having had our fill we returned to Merdeka Square, which had transformed in the evening to a kind of hang-out place for young people. Cars were parked on the edges of the square, music blasting as teens and young 'uns smoked and talked and behaved as though they were impervious to the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune. Ah, youth. Best of all, the Sultan Abdul Samad looked amazing! Apparently it's lit up like an electric birthday cake at night, and depending on the day, has a different color! After that surprising bit of nice we were brought to the Sky Bar, a posh cocktail bar located at the top floor of Traders Hotel. With a commanding view of the Petronas Towers, we had been told that the Sky Bar was the most exclusive place in town, although without a cover charge I could hardly guess as to how this happened. Most remarkable, there is a lap pool in the center of the place, where you'd usually expect to find a dance floor. Apparently, it really does function as an indoor pool of the hotel's during the day, but becomes "Sky Bar" at night. Different nights entail different themes of music played at Sky Bar, from vintage to dance to house to techno to disco. We sampled their signature drink, the "Kiwitini," comprised of Kiwi with Belvedere vodka, a dash of sugar, and topped with Moet & Chandon. We had a lovely table by the pool, which had a window view but also a somewhat scary walkway. You have to duck sloped walls to get to your table, and there's a danger of falling into the pool, and we were carrying cameras, and we were drinking. So that explains that bit of trepidation. We decided to call it a night when we realized we had our last full day tomorrow. Malls and Culture Our first stop the next morning was Aquaria, the much-lauded aquarium in KLCC. Featuring a wide assortment of sea creatures, the many children that filled its hallways were delighted, especially by the interactive displays and feeding demonstrations. The otters were a highlight, although the piranha, jellyfish, electric eel, seahorses, sharks, manta rays and giant turtles were no slouches either. Aquaria boasts the longest underwater tunnel of its kind in the world. Right beside Aquaria is a fish spa, and we decided to give that a go. For 15 minutes, small fish nibble at the dead skin on your feet. An altogether not unpleasant sensation, if only it weren't occasionally so ticklish. Before we engaged with the shopping proper we passed by some places we couldn't the previous day due to rain. We swung by the Cultural Palace, whose current show was a biography of the previous Prime Minister of Malaysia, whose life was apparently filled with drama and adventure. We then dropped by the National Mosque to admire the architecture and take some photographs. A large group of African Muslims had arrived via bus to pay respects, which we were told is uncommon (a large group of African Muslims, that is, not their paying of respects). The Curve was our next destination. It had a flea market in the center lane, many stalls beside one another selling all kinds of tchotchkes and gewgaws you could imagine, and some you couldn't. From batons to storage boxes to personalized jewelry, there was an odd assortment of goods on hand for sale. We decided to try some Nyonya-style Malaysian cuisine at ah Tuan ee's Place, going for the classic Beef Rendang, filet cubes in coconut gravy, although even when we asked it be made less spicy, it was still scorching hot, so we saved it for last. We went through the Chicken Kapitan first, and its luscious, tasty skin. For dessert, to salve our burning tongues we had a lovely Sago Pudding, which tastes and feels like a leche flan but less sweet (though can be made sweeter with syrup). Honey + coconut milk + niyog = deelish! Bellies full, we got to the meat of our trip: shopping. Specifically, Bukit Bintang, which is akin to Singapore's Orchard Road: many malls clustered in the same area for maximum convenience and maximum damage to your credit card statement. Our first stop was Lot 10, which has many small stores, mostly clothing. It reminded me of Manila's Shoppesville in Greenhills, where you sometimes can't tell the difference between stores and their wares, but you're bound to find something interesting and can haggle down to a price you're happy with. Our next stop was Bukit Bintang Plaza, which I wanted to visit simply because there was a Basheer inside. Basheer's main branch in Singapore is considered one of the Ten Best Bookstores in the world and I wanted to see what this branch had to offer. While expectedly not as deep-stocked as the Singapore flagship, especially when it came to photography and art, it did still have a great design selection, and I was able to pick up an issue of IdN I'd been looking for since the beginning of the year. Thanks, Basheer! Jomel found a photography book he liked too. We passed through Sungei Wang, which resembled Lot 10 somewhat but with more jewelry and bags. The next mall was Low Yat, another place I'd heard of but never been to. The entire mall was IT: gadgets, tech, computers, games, anything and everything electronic. Seven floors of it. Think of it as their version of Sim Lim Square. It was hard not to spend gobs of time in that place, just looking at gaming apps and games and phones and (in Jomel's case) cameras and lenses. Here's a tip: try the upper floors, who are so desperate for attention and customers (most people don't make it that far up because they've seen and/or bought what they were looking for down below) that they'll likely drop their prices lower than their counterparts on the ground floor. Last but definitely not least was the Pavilion, the high-end of the mall spectrum, with high ceilings and all the chic-est brands in fashion. You won't find the bargain prices you'll find at Petaling and Central Market here, but you can be certain that you won't be getting knockoffs, either. Elegantly clean and classy, the Pavilion claims to be the biggest mall in Southeast Asia, and I'm inclined to agree. When you get to the top floor and look down the balcony I get a tinge of vertigo I never experience at, say, Mall of Asia. For dinner we were meant to go to someplace for an Asian dinner but when we got there it seemed to be a series of Western-looking restaurants, with hardly any people. "This doesn't look anything Asian," I observed, to which our tour guide Sarah replied, "And I have no idea how this is anything heritage, either." We deemed it a FAIL and asked our driver instead for a recommendation; "Where do regular Malays like to eat?" He took us to a local eatery called Kampung Baru (New Village), a quaint little karinderia-looking place that nonetheless had a view of both the Petronas Towers and the KL Tower. Not too shabby. And the food was great, with that home-cooked flavor and feel that was missing in the other, fancier places (except maybe Jalan Alor). It was so good I completely forgot to take down notes and names, noting only that part of the meal was fried chicken, and another, curry fish. The final item on our itinerary was to visit No Black Tie, a jazz bar with a cozy wood interior. My cousin, who now lives in KL, had also recommended this place, and we were lucky enough to show up on a night when Malaysian jazz/blues legend Ito was doing a special guest performance with the regular band. Ito looks like their version of Joey Pepe Smith, except a jazz musician. Then again, it could may as well have been Joey Pepe Smith in disguise. Have Smith and Ito ever been seen in the same room? After a smoky night that involved a wildly-dancing three-year-old who I guess just loves jazz, we retired to our hotel to prepare for our trip home the next morning. Well, really we just passed out. The preparation took place next morning too. Someone once described KL to me as "Singapore, except with culture." I can see what she meant. I had heard of the fabled love of food this country had, where citizens would plan entire vacations around the cuisine they wanted to sample, and finally got a taste of it thanks to our tour guide. I was aware of a rich culture and history. But that all three exist in one city is a good barometer of its place in a group of cities vying for tourist money. The people tend to go where there's more collective bang for their buck. |
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