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A Haven for Elegantly Communing With Nature
Over the next several minutes, a troop of rambunctious Macaque monkeys came running full tilt like simian speed bikes through the nearby jungle. From the corner of my eye, a trio of deer shyly ambled through the sandy paths leading to the guesthouses. Over the next few days, I was to see them and other denizens of the area. A large gray and black Faint-banded Sea Snake would snuggle in the nooks and crannies of a primordial coral boulder off the jetty (quite docile so long as he was left alone, so I was told). Seabirds of various types would fly in V-formation in the distance as we sat taking in the utter tranquility and sumptuous view of the sea before us while (perfectly harmless) baby sharks and the occasional sea turtle would stir the water just a bit past the shore. However, the most riveting nature experience I was to have here was to occur a kilometer or two away from the resort proper. A Stranger on Stranger Tides Our hosts provided us with a magnificent-looking, twin-engine yacht lined inside and out with smoothly finished hardwood. It had a lavishly cushioned roof deck for sunbathing; a cooler stocked with water, soda, cut fruit, and banana cake; and snorkeling gear which we were fitted for prior to us setting foot on the vessel. Akramanand Iyek, our guide and pilot respectively, were to take us on a morning swim around some of the more fecund reefs near the area, a spot just a few kilometers away from the resort's only pier–the Labuan Aji sea cliff. The last time I had put on a mask, snorkel, and fins, rotary dial phones were all the rage. So with understandable trepidation I followed Iyek into the vast expanse of the Flores Sea. I needn't have worried–the wonder of what I saw below distracted me from my fear. Ten meters below me was the seabed, ending in a sheer drop into a deep cyan aquatic oblivion. Coral shaped like giant pulsating brains eerily cluttered the seascape, while fireworksexplosions of fish billowed in waves, sheets, and showers under me. Now and then, Iyek would point out a rippling ray or batfish while conscientiously plucking the odd bit of garbage from the otherwise immaculate water. It was a garden of visual delights that I could only share with grunts and audible warbles that were nonetheless understood by my adroit companion. Nourishment for the Body and Soul Returning to Amanwana, I was welcomed this time by the jetty's natural shower, a sluice-controlled waterfall that channeled fresh spring water for a bracing dip. After the brief bath, we made it just in time for a soothing Swedish massage administered by the resort's capable masseuses. We buried our faces in hand towels soaked in lemongrass oil while bowls of lively flowers floated dreamily under us. My masseuse chose to knead my unresisting muscles and cantankerous joints into submission with a sweet balm of lavender and soybean oil. Sleep would have been the logical conclusion were it not for the James Earl Jones-like rumbling of my famished innards. Amanwana's single restaurant is a posh but unenclosed affair of sleek furnishings, snug couches, antique Balinese furnishings, and board games for passing the time. As the bar brought us chilled bottles of locally brewed Bintang Beer, Atik, the senior cook on duty, put together some toothsome treats for us using organic ingredients grown in the resort's own gardens or acquired from nearby Sumbawa Island. We began our meal with a Steamed Fish with Lentil Salad and Pesto. The fish fillet slices were smothered in pesto while the green lentils and carrots lay like a little avalanche underneath, garnished with arugula leaves. The lentils were simmered in lemon juice. Then came the Greek Salad with Oregano Dressing, a verdant mishmash of cherry tomatoes, feta cheese, black olives, onion slivers, green pepper, and cucumber, topped with oregano dressing and olive oil. I held out for the PrawnCocktail with Avocado–the luscious avocado slices with arugula and thousand-island dressing blended well with the dressing and the shrimp. For the main meal, I went native with Soto Ayam, an Indonesian chicken soup recipe with glass noodles, shredded boiled chicken, hard boiled egg halves, tomato chunks, green bean slivers, and a light sweet curry peanut broth. It went well with the Tuna SambalMatah, a grilled tuna spiced with chopped lemon grass, chili, onion, olive oil, salt and pepper, and served with steamed rice topped with fried garlic and a siding of swamp cabbage, mung bean sprouts, fresh garlic, and fried ginger. To cleanse our palates, we had a humble Fruit Salad with Ice Cream. Presented in a parfait glass, the homemade mango ice cream floated atop a bed of diced papaya, pineapple, watermelon, and melon swimming in squeezed orange juice. To complement the Balinese fare, the Sagu Pudding with Palm Sugar and Coconut Cream capped our repast most eloquently. The sagupearls were cooked into a cake with a generous helping of coconut cream and melon cubes poured lovingly over it to form a milky cloud against a moat of burnt palm sugar syrup. Camping Out in Style Amanwana is not a large resort, in terms of capacity–but here, it's all about the privacy and comfort more than anything else. Its 20 cottages are actually massive lavish double-layered canvas tents with wooden panels and flooring, tasteful Balinese objets 'd art, clear large-paned windows, robust WiFi, immaculate bathrooms, more of the same snug couches, and a scrumptiously yielding bed that is also good for sleeping in. A voluminous mosquito net, bug ointments, and electronic bug repellent devices protected us from any unwanted insectoid attention. Despite the imperceptible drone of the air-conditioning, I could still hear the nocturnal sounds of the jungle as they lulled me into a deep slumber. Even through the darkness, I thought I saw a pair of doe eyes peering through the window before the deer went to munch on the hedges next to our door. That's okay, I thought. At Amanwana, I'm sure the folks around here wouldn't mind the wildlife dropping by to say hi - nice and peaceful, of course. I'll be sure to return the favor. |
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