Balai, Sweet Balai
Eskaya Beach Resort is located on the island of Panglao, at the southernmost tip of Bohol province in the Vizayas region of the Philippines. Although only approximately one hour by air from the city of Manila to Tagbilaran City, the capital of Bohol, one feels transported to some far-flung island paradise. Nestled in the midst of 16 hectares of verdant flatlands, rolling hills and gradually ascending cliffs, Eskaya boasts a commanding view of the deep-blue Bohol Sea. Fifteen exclusive Filipino-style villas, varying in size and type, are spread across this beautiful parcel of land. Each single-detached villa utilizes indigenous materials and showcases Filipino craftsmanship and architecture at its finest. Thatched roofs, dried cogon grass, and bamboo wood give the villas an exotic tropical feel, yet comfort and amenities are definitely modern and state-of-the-art. Each villa has spacious rooms, luxurious outdoor-type bathrooms with their own jacuzzi, and fabulous views of the lush resort grounds or the azure sea. Most of the villas have a large outdoor deck, with a private pool.
The Villas are called Balais, which in the Visayan language, means "house." More than just a hotel room in which to rest your head, Eskaya is a place where guests are made to feel at home in their balai. This warmth and hospitality are part of the enchantment of Eskaya, and it is this spirit that makes the balai feel more like a "sweet home."
Once Upon a Time
After checking in, I was ushered to the resort's Lantawan Restaurant. I had just finished relishing the last morsel of my delicious pan-seared tilapia fillet encrusted with cashew nuts, pesto and cream cheese, served with soy-garlic rice and coconut cream sauce, when I was advised that Eskaya had a special guest for the day. Datu Roberto Datahan, Chief of Bohol's Eskaya tribe, was there to welcome us. We sat in the gazebo overlooking the ocean, and our short tête-à-tête quickly turned into an engaging lesson in Philippine history.
Datu Datahan took me back to the "once upon a time" of the galleon trade, Spanish conquistadors, and blood compacts. He narrated his people's history with such passion and zeal, and in my mind's eye, I imagined myself sitting around a fire with the tribe, listening intently to the stuff of which legends are made. He spoke of the Eskaya tribe, being one of the oldest indigenous people groups, and how their name was derived from an ancient cave hieroglyph. When translated, Eskaya means "first," or "first inhabitants." This connotes pride, prestige and honor. After all, not just anyone can claim to have been the first dwellers of Bohol. How fitting, I thought, for a resort so beautiful and grand to have this as its namesake. The resort, like the tribe, evokes an air of pride and prestige and commands a sense of honor.
Sweet Memories and Imaginations
Although I could have spent the entire afternoon listening to Datu Datahan, it was time to head to the Handuraw Spa for 60 minutes of pampering bliss. The Spa and its surrounding gardens are exquisite and charming. Waterfalls, thick foliage, an outdoor jacuzzi, and infinity pool make it picture-perfect. The treatment rooms are equipped with top-of-the-line facilities, which allow for the ultimate spa experience. Handuraw offers an array of treatments, services and massages which are a fusion of traditional Asian healing therapies; color-, sound- and aromatherapies; and modern spa technology. The end result is skillful pampering at its finest. I opted for the traditional shiatsu massage, designed to "influence the flow of energy, and maintain harmony and good health." Admittedly, I had been feeling a tinge of "birthday blues," and decided that good energy was just what I needed. As my spa therapist masterfully worked on the muscles and meridians of my body, my birthday blues were slowly replaced by "'sweet dreams and imaginations." This is the meaning of Handuraw. This is the Handuraw experience.
Food, Lyrical Food!
The afternoon hours went by too quickly, and soon it was time for dinner. And oh, what a dinner it was! Executive Chef Rexon Pacao was the author of a meal so delicious it was almost poetry. It was a meal in four "stanzas," beginning with a refreshing fruits and greens salad with lychee dressing. This was followed by Salmon en Papillote, the freshest fillet of salmon, with leeks, ginger and a light teriyaki sauce, baked in paper to seal in the juices. After that divine dish came the succulent spicy Thai chicken with ginger and fresh basil. Then, fresh steamed lobster. Red and white wines, and a slice of sinfully rich raspberry mousse cake (three layers of butter chiffon, raspberry mousse and dark choco cake, drizzled with dark choco and raspberry syrup) were the perfect counterpoints to the meal. We enjoyed our dinner al fresco, under the night sky, surrounded by countless candles that decked the resort's fabulous infinity pool. Had we been dining on "mince, and slices of quince," it would not have been any more poetic. Pass the runcible spoon, please!
Swallows, Hanging Bridges and other Adventures
The second day of my stay was filled with fun and frolic. Indeed, what is a good story without a bit of adventure? Eskaya's grounds are filled with "secret" gardens, nature trails, man-made streams and creeks, even a wooden hanging bridge you can cross to get down to the beach. The privacy and exclusivity of the resort make it an ideal getaway, perfect for honeymooners, business conventions, and family trips. Serenity and relaxation are in store for those who are weary of the daily grind, especially amidst the hectic hustle-and-bustle of the Christmas season. For those who want to trek out, Eskaya offers several tour packages of Bohol, by land, sea, or under the sea. Bohol is famous for its many gorgeous dive spots, as Eskaya dive shop operator and dive instructor Yanick Epitalon will tell you. I would have gone diving had time permitted, but instead I was happy to explore the gardens, stroll on the beach, and lounge around the infinity pool. Much to my delight, as I was swimming in the pool just before sunset, a flock of swallows flew all around me, diving into the waters for a quick bath. Imagine the whimsy of it all!
Happy Endings
Like all good things, my escape to enchanting Eskaya soon reached its happy ending. My day of adventure and whimsy ended with a delightful birthday dinner by the sea. …Of which I have already told you – I still refuse to reveal how old I turned. That part of the story will have to remain untold. What I will tell you is this: as you write out your life's story, leave a chapter for enchantment (your own Eskaya Escape, perhaps). We can all use a good dose of this, on occasion.
