I turned the tassel around in my hand, letting its soft threads hover over my palm in a ticklish dance. It was deep red and just a tad heavy; its silky smooth threads bound together by sturdy black plastic. Dangling from one end was a key, which literally opened the door to a little piece of heaven – our very own villa at The Nam Hai in Hoi An, Vietnam.
Like a dream
"I could live here for a month," G-nie, our photographer, quipped the moment we pushed open the heavy dark door and stepped in the one-bedroom villa swathed in warm lights. Instead of replying, I walked past her and explored the long room. I noticed the twin sinks and mirrors at one end, but I was immediately drawn to the inviting beds. They were decked in the fluffy white goodness of pillows and mattresses. Having just come from almost a full day's travel, it was most tempting to just jump under the covers and succumb to sweet slumber.
But sleep was the least of our priorities. After all, who in her right mind would want to waste time in bed when she is in one of the dreamiest places on earth? And so we left our luggage unopened, tucked the tassel safely in my bag, and stepped out into the waiting arms of The Nam Hai's.
The dance of lights
The sun had retired for the night by the time we started our leisurely walk. Squinting hard, I could make out the shapes of the moving waters of the nearby beach. It was easier though to just use my ears and I did – listening to the rhythmic crash of waves on the shore and the chorus of frogs croaking to their hearts' content. It was a fascinating medley and a welcome change to the usual madness of screeches and car horns that met my ears in my daily commute.
I soon realized that we were in for one visual treat when I saw the balls of light all aglow in the darkness as we turned into The Restaurant. But the lights did not come solely from the intricate wrought-iron balls seemingly floating about on the waters – they were everywhere. Candles flickered on each of the tables, yellow lights spilled out from the open doors of the resto, and unseen bulbs lit up all three infinity pools from inside.
Settling down into one of the comfortable couches in the outdoor dining area, we were both temporarily lost in our own thoughts. I could only guess what was going on in my travel buddy's mind, but I am willing to bet that she was equally entranced with the sights and sounds that surrounded us. This comfortable silence was broken soon enough when a restaurant attendant handed us the menus. Before I even had time to consider how difficult it would be to read them in the shadows, she pressed a button, and a clip-on light came to life. It was one of the countless little details that made The Nam Hai the exceptional resort that it was, I realized soon enough.
Wonderful waters
The lights lend an almost tangible feeling of charm to the resort at night. But the dance of lights continues well into the first burst of sunlight. We took to exploring the expansive grounds early the next day when the resort was bathed in the gorgeous morning sun. It was nearly impossible to cover every inch of the 35 hectare property, so we just followed our feet and wandered to where it took us.
Our first stop was down the stone steps and onto the sandy shore. Following the long line of fine white sand, I noticed the horseshoe layout of the beachfront villas that provided everyone a private view of the sea. Not that picking out a secluded spot on the beach was a challenge. On the contrary, guests could easily step out from their villa's terrace, take a short walk down to the shore, and while their time away in peace.
The Ha My Beach, where The Nam Hai lies, is one of the few beaches I have been to that was not bustling with activity. There were no hawkers waving souvenirs under your nose, no jet skis whirring by with a splash, and even boats were a rare sight. Instead, one can indulge in the seemingly endless stretch of sea, sand, and sky. Standing there on the beach that morning, I came to the conclusion that traveling a grand total of five hours from Manila to Hoi An was a small price to pay to be there.
It was a thought that resounded in my mind as we continued our little exploration. Finding ourselves back in the main building, I discovered my favorite spot at The Nam Hai. That is, standing behind the reception area and facing the beach. From that perspective, I watched the sun dance over the rippling waters of the fountains interspersed with the three infinity pools that created the illusion of water spilling over from the resort into the sea. It was breathtaking.
The Indochine charm and cuisine
Located 11km north of the UNESCO World Heritage city of Hoi An, it should not come as a surprise that the resort takes inspiration from Indochina influences. This was perhaps most evident in the villas' roof design which echo the ubiquitous shape of the traditional conical hat of the Vietnamese known as nón lá. Distinct Cham influences were likewise prominent, particularly through stone accents of Cham people in the privately-owned pool villas. Said to the descendants of the Kingdom of Champa, the Indian civilization that conquered southern and central Vietnam for many centuries, the Cham people are currently considered an ethnic group in Southeast Asia and a number of them reside in Vietnam.
The Indochina influence further extends to The Restaurant's menu. We caught up with the charismatic Chef Ashish Deva, the main man behind the resort's delightful cuisine. Over a sinful chocolate trio dessert prepared by pastry chef Derryck Brassem, Chef Ashish shared with us his culinary passion and the reason behind the absence of a signature dish in the carefully prepared menu. "Each dish on the menu is there for a particular reason. I refuse to say that one dish is better than the rest; otherwise they wouldn't be on the menu. Each dish on the menu needs to have its own face."
It was an interesting concept that made even more sense when I learned about the amount of work that goes into each and every dish. Chef Asish confessed that he likes to cook slow and long, sometimes spending as much as 48 hours in total for the preparation of a single dish. Needless to say, The Nam Hai's executive chef is perfectly at home in the kitchen.
Asked what he hoped resort guests would take home with them when they leave, Chef Ashish said that he'd be happiest if guests would leave thinking that the food in the restaurant is something they would want to try again.
I'd have to say that if that was solely the source of his happiness, Chef Ashish would be a very happy man because the food at the resort is definitely something I'm sure guests wouldn't mind having again and again. In fact, we enjoyed their naan bread and Indian curries so much we ended up ordering almost the same dishes two nights in a row. A personal favorite though is the Chicken Massala pizza I had for lunch at the resort's Beach Restaurant. A huge serving of shredded chicken, fresh iceberg lettuce, and tomatoes on a thin crust drizzled with yogurt dressing and smothered with cheese, the pizza was a delightful Indian take on the Italian classic. My mouth still waters at the memory of that first bite.
Indulging the body, satisfying the soul
There was truly so much to see and to taste at The Nam Hai, but one cannot leave without a visit to The Spa. Like the resort itself, the spa has received significant international accolades and is even considered as "the best destination spa".
Coming out of the spa villa with a satisfied smile on my face, it was easy to see why The Spa has earned the nod of guests and experts alike. My own experience was nothing short of heavenly. It started with the aromatherapy foot polish done at the suite's deck overlooking the lotus pond, where one can enjoy the fresh air and the singsong of birds. Afterwards, I was led back inside the privacy of my own spa villa where I was given the traditional Vietnamese massage. A technique that combines massage strokes and pressures points, the Vietnamese massage treatment left my muscles relaxed and rejuvenated. It was the perfect way to end my sensual Nam Hai experience.
With a smile and a sigh
Sooner than soon, it was time to pack up our bags and leave. With a flight to catch and a schedule to follow, we did not exactly have much time to linger. Not enough time for me to memorize the little details that photos could only attempt to capture – the incredible softness of our beds, the wispy and whimsical curtains, and the stunning view of the beach that I wouldn't mind waking up to every morning.
I peeked in and caught one last glimpse before pulling the heavy dark door behind me. In the cart ride from our villa to the main building, I held the key and thought back to that night when I first held it in my hand. The memories elicited a sigh and a contented smile. When the cart came to a stop, I climbed up the stairs, wistfully returned that deep red tassel, and said goodbye.