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Serene, Divine, Sublime: Rayavadee
In the heart of the Phranang Peninsula, at the edge of Krabi Province, Thailand's National Marine Park in Southern Thailand, there is a place like nowhere else on earth. A place so serene and exquisite, words almost fall short to describe its sublime beauty. This is Rayavadee. A room with a view My phone alarm sounded off at half past six. I rolled over and stared at my king-sized bed, still crisp and neat, except for the one tiny side I had mussed up. A beam of sunlight filtered through a portion of the wooden blinds left ajar the night before as I inspected my villa upon our late arrival (we had taken a plane from Manila to Bangkok, a connecting flight from Bangkok to Krabi, a van from Krabi airport to Krabi pier, and a speedboat to Rayavadee. All well worth it). I got up, eager to scope out my new surroundings in the light of day. The view that greeted me from my bedroom window was more than breathtaking; it was nothing short of divine. Beyond incredibly lush and verdant foliage were the deep blues and greens of the sea. This was a far cry from the busy cityscape which I had grown used to. Stepping outside was even more amazing. This scenery bore the mark of divinity, and as if to remind me of this, everything about the view drew my gaze upwards: tall, sturdy coconut trees standing watch over smaller trees, shrubs, and plant life of all kinds. Rising farther beyond the tops of the coconut trees, majestic limestone cliffs form a hedge of protection around this fantasy island-paradise. I realized I had been holding my breath all this time and let out what I was sure to be an audible gasp. Rayavedee was unlike any other place on earth. To me, it was heaven on earth. "Good morning, sir!" Lost in the moment, my reverie was interrupted by an electric golf cart that had pulled up at the curb to take me to breakfast at the Raya Dining Pavilion. Rayavedee stretches out over an impressive 26-acre cut of land. Within the property, foot paths intersect with cement bike and buggy trails. "Sawasdee Ka! Good morning, Sir! To breakfast, Sir!" came the cheerful greeting of my driver. I turned to find I was the only one onboard and I was, in fact, the "sir" to whom he was referring. Later on I learned that Rayavadee has a resident teacher, responsible for training the staff in conversational English. And though they are remarkably proficient at it, some old habits die hard in this beautiful, timeless place. So, with a touch of amusement, I happily imagined myself part of the cast of "The King and I". The breakfast buffet was a healthy and delicious way to start the day. Fresh fruit, delectable cheeses, homemade organic and natural tropical jams, cereals, yoghurt, deli cuts and all the cold cut items are served buffet style, while the "hot" items are ordered from a menu and cooked and served fresh. Coffee lovers like me can choose from the standard brewed cup-of-Joe, to cappuccino, latte, or espresso. When I had eaten more than my fill, I hurried to meet up with our group to begin our day's adventure: island-hopping around Krabi via speedboat.
Sapphires and emeralds On board the boat and jetting farther away from the resort, I was amazed at how vast and stunning Thailand's sea territory is. The water seemed to sparkle like sapphires and emeralds in the bright morning sun. Beyond the deep jewel-tones of the Andaman Sea are lush islands with quaint fishing villages, splendid beaches, crystal clear lagoons and bays, and awe-inspiring limestone cliffs. Here, in the middle of the seemingly endless expanse of sea, lies the true beauty of Krabi. Our first stop was Phi Phi Don on Phi Phi Island. Snorkeling in the many beautiful coral reefs of Phi Phi Don proved to be an incredible experience. The reefs are teeming with tropical fish of all colors, shapes, and kinds, and it is easy to forget the world above in this surreal undersea setting. More matchless beauty was in store for us at Vang Lhong Lagoon, Lohdalam Bay, and Nui Bay, all with pristine beaches, and spectacular limestone cliffs. A trip around Phi Phi Leh took us to Ao Maya Beach (film buffs may recognize this fabulous venue as the setting of Leo Di Caprio's "The Beach"), Pelah Lagoon, and Viking Cave (where daring locals say a prayer before braving the steep cliffs in search of a bird's nest delicacy). Rayavadee prepared a delicious picnic lunch of grilled tiger prawns, grilled chicken, and chutney-curry rice, which was served to us on the white sands of Bamboo Island. It was just in time as the morning's snorkeling had left us all famished. Sweet dreams are made of these Back at Rayavadee, still a bit wobbly on my sea legs, we sipped on cocktails at The Grotto, a restaurant-bar nestled under an ancient limestone cliff on the edge of the Phranang Beach. The effect of the setting sun's splendid yellow-orange aura catching the natural colors of the limestone was magical. I felt like a child seeing things for the first time. This was happiness, indeed. More happiness was in store at Krua Phranang, Rayavadee's romantic Thai Restaurant, where Executive Chef Pitsanu Nasomvas had prepared a Thai feast for us. We started with a pre-appetizer of mieng kana, an aromatic and delicious mix of shrimp, cashew nuts, ginger, kaffir lime, shallots, and chili, all wrapped in kale leaves, and dipped in a sweet and tangy tamarind sauce. It was an amazing combination and burst of flavors. Next, the incredibly delicious appetizer and soup: prawn salad in lemongrass and fish tom yum soup. I was already starting to feel quite full when the main courses were served: crisp and mouthwatering whole sea bass with tamarind, chili, and palm sugar sauces, in coconut milk and basil, and the delectable Poo Nim Thod Prik Tai Dam, battered and deep-fried soft-shell crab served with asparagus and black pepper sauce. Dessert was a gluttonous, but most welcome ending: ploy grob (home-made coconut ice cream topped with coconut jelly and fried water chestnuts) and melt-in-your-mouth Thai sticky rice with mango. All the dishes bore testament to Chef Pitsanu's philosophy of "mastering basic cooking skills, using only the most fresh and aromatic ingredients, and cooking for pleasure" (for both chef and diner). Pleasure was the predominant feeling at the end of this meal. As I lay in bed that night, visions of Thai food danced in my head. Serenity and the city girl The next morning I awoke to the sound of squirrels playing outside my window. I yanked a bikini and a sundress from my suitcase (which, in true city-girl form, was way over-packed) and rushed to dress, wanting to be in the midst of the magnificent scenery as soon as I possibly could. I just about ran outside my villa, heading towards the infinity pool, book and iPod (loaded with everything from the Rolling Stones to the Beastie Boys) in tow. Yet strangely enough, I could neither pick-up the book nor turn the music on. I was happy to gaze out at the sea, and listen to the birds chirping, the leaves rustling, and the waves lapping up on the shore. Then all of a sudden, it hit me. Slowly, at first, then quite rapidly, encompassing my entire being with what I can best describe as fuzzy warmth. It was somewhat strange yet neither totally foreign nor unwanted. It was the remarkable sensation of utter serenity. Something this "rock-'n-roll-hoochie-koo" city girl had not entertained in quite a while. Land of the princess The rest of the day was spent exploring Rayavadee, which means land of the princess. Local legend tells of two beautiful Indian princesses whose trading ship went down in nearby waters. They took refuge in a cave on Phranang (spirit of the goddess-princess) Beach, where fishermen and locals would come to pay homage and offerings. To this day, the shrine of the princess stands in the cave and on the night of each full moon, locals come to make their wishes and give their offerings. Rayavadee truly is a place suited for royalty. Amidst the paradise-like tropical gardens and coconut groves are 98 two-storey Deluxe, Spa, Hydro-Pool and Family Pavilions. Each pavilion features luxurious one- and two-bedroom villas in a complete home setting, with or without a private hydro-pool. For the ultimate in luxury, Rayavadee has 4 beachfront villas, The Raitalay Villa on Railay Beach, The Rayavadee Villa and The Phranang Villas on Phranang Beach. The award-winning design of all of Rayavadee's facilities is ethereal in beauty, evoking traditional elements of Thai culture and existing in perfect harmony with nature. A girl could get used to this! A trip to the resort is not complete without one of their excellent spa treatments, and this was next on my list of activities. The Rayavadee Spa is a marvelous sanctuary and haven for the senses, beckoning you to leave your cares far, far behind even as you enter its doors. The highly-skilled spa therapists constantly innovate on traditional massage and treatment techniques, something I experienced first-hand with the Rayavadee Signature Massage that I chose. It was 75 minutes of pure bliss, which began with a foot bath, and then a full-body massage (designed to improve muscular tone and soothe away tension) with warm herbal oil, followed by the traditional Thai herbal heat pouch applied all over the body. As I lay on the treatment bed, utterly and totally relaxed, the only thing I could think of was "a girl could get used to this." Sigh. Parting gifts All too soon, it was time to leave the land of the princess which I had come to love in such a short span of time. If you decide to visit Rayavadee, do travel light: leave your excess baggage—your cares and worries—behind. Put technology on hold to re-acquaint yourself with life's most sublime pleasures and treasures. Silence the noise of your daily grind, and get rid of those "ants in your pants". Or, simply embrace the experience and leave everything to Rayavadee. As the speedboat pulled away from the resort, with the Rayavadee staff waving goodbye, I felt a tinge of sadness at the thought of good things coming to an end. Then I realized that the best of all these good things—the state of serenity, the encounter with sublime beauty—weren't coming to an end. Not just yet. These were among Rayavadee's parting gifts to me. I know now that I would trade my city-slicker-rocker-chick boots any day to be a flip-flop wearing island princess at Rayavadee. Even if it meant occasionally being called "sir". |
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