As administering the flock is like managing a corporation, the appointment and elevation of parishes to the noble job of supervising and collating similarly spread out missions into one central authority. During the Spanish colonial period, five Bishoprics were created primarily to maximize and fully implement the programs and policies of the Catholic Church. Three of these are located in the island of Luzon: Manila, Nueva Segovia; first in the town of Lal-lo in Cagayan and later transferred to Vigan, and Nueva Caceres (today’s Naga); while two are in the Vizayas: in Cebu and Jaro in Iloilo. As Luzon was the main center of political and religious power in the colony, the importance of the three in the main island was undeniable. But not long after, distance and difficulty in administering an increasing flock was becoming more pronounced, the elevation of Jaro and later, Cebu was necessary.
Jaro was first recorded as an Augustinian-administered town in 1575, though originally, it was under the patronage and supervision of the nearby town of Oton which then had a Priory. Jaro became independent 12 years later in 1587, originally under the advocacy of Our Lady of the Purification, which was replaced by the Lady of the Candles. Sometime around 1686, the original town site, what is today La Paz, was abandoned due primarily to Dutch invasions as well as damages brought about by Mother Nature. As transfers of town sites are typical for colonial settlements, name changes as well were synonymous to the progression of communities in the country. The name of the town itself is most likely brought about by misunderstanding or miscommunication, for the town’s original name underwent numerous changes from its original name, Salog to its Hispanized version Xaro, which no doubt, got lost in translation and became Jaro.
The plight of the town and the people’s efforts in building a lasting legacy to their faith did not end there, for as fate would put it, Jaro too, would experience the usual travails that most communities in the country experience – the ordeal of building and rebuilding a church worthy of its people’s devotion and loyalty to their faith. The church of Jaro is an evolution of time, with the earliest church built during the founding of the town in 1575. Similar to most structures, the building was undoubtedly made of light materials. A more permanent structure was built in 1726 by Fray Bernardino Alisen, OSA after the town was transferred to its present site, and after numerous reconstructions have been undertaken on the previous structure. The three-level belfry, built from 1742-1744 and the only detached belfry in the Visayas, is attributed to Fray Juan Aguado OSA.
By 1868 Jaro was handed over to the Diocese. Although the devastating earthquake of 1824 practically reduced the church to rubbles, much of it was subsequently rebuilt under the direction of Bishop Mariano Cuartero. Today, Jaro’s architecture could be attributed to the contributions of this indefatigable prelate.
The architecture of Jaro church is typical of the design and execution of most Baroque churches in the country. Made of brick and coral stone, the church originally had a rather severe, albeit proportionate façade. Flat piers which rise all the way to the façade’s undulating pediment provide the necessary image of strength and stability, while arched windows, coupled along the central field and solo along the edge add the necessary touch of lightness and subtle grace. A round relief located above the choir loft window acts as the sole decorative element of the entire composition. Numerous add-ons have unfortunately been incorporated to this colonial visage with concrete, Gothic-like towers inserted along the building’s lower pediment. And in the 1980’s, a stairway shrine to the central niche was constructed. The detached belfry too, which collapsed after the earthquake of 1946, was recently reconstructed. Although adhering to the original massing, proportion and look, much of its colonial flavor is sadly missing, with the patina of age unfortunately absent due in part to the use of modern-day concrete.
Admiring the interior of Jaro church, one cannot but make a comparison of sorts to another shrine seen in the Province, for in the Church of Molo the opposite of what is devoted in Jaro can be viewed. Jaro, though dedicated to the Virgin is the Apostles’ church with their images, together with those of other male saints, mounted on the church’s interior piers. Molo, on the other hand, is strictly “girl power.” Looking at the bevy of male superiority, the various images of the saints give a feeling of awe or even amazement, for the rendition of these statues are one of naturalness with a tinge of candidness albeit graceful poses. The images are a study of various stances, with hands raised in praise or pointing with menacing glances.
The Church of Our Lady of Candles in Jaro definitely should not be missed. Although renovated significantly during the last quarter of the 20th century, these additions render an imprint to the contributions of time to a colonial infrastructure. And even though the architecture of the church has been renovated to keep up with the dictates of modernity, the ambience of the past still lingers with the texture and patina of stone and brick. In addition to this, the parade of male supremacy as seen through the statues of the Apostles, give a unique insight into the church’s colonial psyche and lend an intriguing query into the much-debated battle of the sexes, for only in the island of Panay and in the Province of Iloilo does one visit churches where there is gender delineation and the male and female saints are enshrined separately in lending service to the faithful.
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