I have always wanted to go on an adventure. When the opportunity came, I reached out and grabbed it. I was on my way to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia – the land of Mt. Kinabalu, the highest mountain between the peaks of the Himalayas and Wilhelmina in Irian Jaya. We departed late afternoon for Malaysia, just a two hour fl ight via Air Asia from Clark Airport, Pampanga. I had never been to Malaysia before and my heart was pounding with excitement. As we were about to land, I took in all the sights and vistas – I was going to be spending the next fi ve days in this place, with my itinerary jampacked with activities. I couldn’t wait for my adventure to begin. After a smooth landing, I was pleasantly surprised as we entered Kota Kinabalu Airport. Although small, the airport was quite busy and extremely clean. Everybody was pleasant and eager to assist this weak, skinny girl with her luggage. Upon our arrival, we were greeted by a smiling Bobby, who was to be our tour guide. After loading our luggage, we were whisked away to dinner, which was just as well – we were all starving! The rain began pouring heavily, but this neither dampened our appetite nor Bobby’s pleasant attitude. On our ten minute drive, he gave us a blow by blow of Kota Kinabalu and all the exciting activities he had in store for us in the days to come. I marveled at the city around me. Kota Kinabalu, or as the locals call it, “KK,” is quite the clean, modern city. Five star hotels were in our midst as well as a number of shopping malls. It is easy to see that it is one of the fastest growing cities in Malaysia.

Introduction To Culture

We finally arrived at Kampung Nelayan Restaurant, a popular local eatery. “Kampung” which in Malay means “village” and “nelayan” which means “fi sherman” leaves little to the imagination when it comes to the menu. Seafood is KK’s specialty. Their seafood is widely known all over Malaysia as the freshest and most affordable. As we feasted on a dinner of huge peppered crabs, buttered prawns and steamed fi sh, we knew we’d died and gone to seafood heaven. We were treated to a cultural dance afterwards and were even invited to partake in the dance. While watching, I noticed how similar the dance was to our “tinikling.” Their feathered headdress was also reminiscent of the Igorot costumes of the Ifugaos in the mountain provinces, which was quite interesting. The next dance was the Limbai, or the dance of the Bajau. The women wore ornate gold headdresses while the men carried their tobacco containers or “supu” in a cloths tied around their waists. This dance is regularly performed by three or four couples and is performed during festivities like weddings to welcome the groom as he arrives at the bride’s house. After the dance, we headed home, ready to sleep. We had a big day ahead of us and we needed a good night’s rest. The Promenade Hotel, our place of residence for the next few days, provided us exactly that. The friendly staff readily assisted us and we were checked in promptly.

As promised, the tour guide took us to Pete’s Corner, a small local restaurant for breakfast. A steaming mug of tea quenched our thirst and need for caffeine as we prepared for a big day of white water rafting. We were then presented with a traditional local breakfast dish called “nasi lemak” which consisted of a red chilli paste with tomatoes, dried anchovies, peanuts and a cup of rice cooked in coconut milk topped off with a fried egg and fried shallots. The taste was unlike anything I’d ever had before, with its spicy saltiness that is perfectly neutralized by the rice and fried egg. The peanuts were also an interesting addition which made the meal pleasantly crunchy. After a filling breakfast, we were all pumped up for our white water rafting adventure down Kiulu River, about an hour’s drive away from the city. On the way to Kiulu River, we noticed several small brightly colored wooden shacks across the bay. When I asked Bobby, the tour guide, about them, he explained that it was where the sea Bajau lived. The name sounded familiar, and Bobby indeed confirmed that they were the same Bajaus that inhabited the Philippines.

Sabah, is a melting pot of many cultures. Their population of a little over 2.98 million includes 30 different races and over 80 different dialects, each group having its own distinct culture, traditions, festivals and customs. The largest ethnic group in Sabah is the Kadazans/ Dusuns who inhabit mainly the West Coast. The Kadazans/Dusuns are a farming people and the largest producers of rice in Sabah although many have now gone into different professions. The Bajau people are divided into two: sea bajaus, who live on the east coast and land bajaus, who live on the west coast. The sea bajaus are often called “sea gypsies” as they are mostly sea nomads, only setting foot on land to bury their dead. The land bajaus, on the other hand, are known as the “cowboys of the east” as they are known for their agricultural prowess and horsemanship. Though there are many different cultures, all live peacefully as one.

One Wild Ride

A long winding road up the mountains took us to Kiulu River, and as we approached the site, we quickly put on our swimming gear. It was going to be one wet and wild ride! Our group was divided into two, about five people to each boat. I volunteered to stay up front, and my job was to help steer our group into safety, with the help of my partner. Before going in, our river guide, who also happened to be our tour guide, Bobby, gave us thorough instructions on what we were to do and briefed us on the precautions we had to take. He also told us what to do in case of an emergency. All of a sudden, I wasn’t too sure if I wanted to stay up front, but I had no choice since the rest of my group could not stay in the front because they weren’t good swimmers. I swallowed my fear and got in the boat. We paddled along what seemed to be a calm, Milo colored river. Bobby explained that the river was that color because of the silt that was present at the bottom. After what seemed to be a relaxing journey down the river, Bobby yelled “Paddle forward!” Immediately, my partner and I sprung into action, paddling with all our might. The last thing we wanted was our boat to topple over as the rapids started to become fiercer. I felt like Meryl Streep in the movie “The River Wild,” paddling for life. I knew we were far from that, but I couldn’t help but ride the adrenaline rush that was pumping in my heart. When we went through several more rapids, I felt more experienced and less scared. We finally came to a pebbled shore where we were allowed to take a dip in the river, relieving us of our sweat. The whole group splashed around like kids, enjoying our little break. Finally, it was time for us to continue our journey down the river. As it came to an end, everyone clambered out of the boat, eager to eat the BBQ lunch that was awaiting us.

The trip back into town allowed each of us to take a nap and relax for our day was not yet over. We were to take a brief tour of the city which included viewing several landmarks. The first one we came across was the KK City Mosque, a giant structure complete with majestic, azure domes glistening in the sun, a stark contrast to the white paint. The KK City Mosque is the largest in Kota Kinabalu and one of the most beautiful in Malaysia. Another interesting structure was the Sabah Foundation Building, a circular structure that is supported by high tensile and steel rods, about 30 storey’s high. It is one of the four buildings of its kind and is the tallest building in Sabah. During the Second World War, much of KK was destroyed, leaving few buildings such as the Atkinson Clock Tower, which was constructed during the British colonization. It was built by Mary Edith Atkinson on Bukit Brace (Brace Hill) in 1905, in memory of her son Francis George Atkinson who was the first District Officer of Jesselton, the former name of Kota Kinabalu. Another historic landmark is The Sabah Tourism Building, built in 1916. It was originally constructed to house the Printing Office and later on served as the building for many other different offices. Most of these landmarks can be seen atop Signal Hill, which provides a spectacular view of KK. Signal Hill is also a famous place for many trysts as lovers are often spotted canoodling on the benches. We saw two such couples and the sun set, we knew the reason they were there.

Climb Every Mountain, Ford Every Hot Spring

The next day, each of us woke up at the crack of dawn although nobody complained. It was the trip we had all been waiting for, the trip to Mt. Kinabalu and Poring Hot Springs. We quickly devoured our breakfast and loaded our bags into the car. It takes about two hours to drive to Kinabalu Park from KK, and we didn’t mind the nap. The trip to Kinabalu Park takes you up into the lush, green mountains of Sabah and offers fantastic views. I was able to catch the scenery at the last leg of our journey up the mountain and it just took my breath away. Kinabalu Park is Malaysia’s First World Heritage Site. It covers as much as 754 sq meters from the park headquarters all the way to Poring Hot Springs, our next destination. It was established as a state park in 1964 and is filled with extensive flora and fauna that ranges over 4 climate zones! As we finally reached Kinabalu Park, our first stop was the Pekan Nabalu Fruits & Handicraft Market. Prior to the trip, we were advised to wear warm clothing because it was going to be quite cold since we were up so high. I found this to be true as I stepped out from the van, when a cold blast of air immediately hit me. I wrapped my scarf around my neck – it was freezing! The Handicraft Market was a delight and all of us were able to purchase little souvenirs to take back home. Many of us opted for refrigerator magnets with the Rafflesia, the world’s biggest flower which is found in Borneo. The Handicraft Market also offered a view of Mt. Kinabalu, which we desperately tried to see but to no avail due to the heavy fog. Our next stop was the Mt. Kinabalu Botanical Garden, a must for any nature lovers. Several trails lead you to rare flora and fauna for your viewing pleasure. In fact, one can find the precious Rothschild’s Slipper Orchid here, the most expensive orchid in the world. So expensive, it is known as the “Kinabalu Gold.” Another rarity is the insect eating Rajah Brooke’s Pitcher Plant that can hold up to 3.5 litres of water! Everywhere I looked brightly colored plants and flowers sprung out at me. Luckily, all the plants were labeled which helped a lot in distinguishing them. After our garden tour, we climbed up once more, all the way to Kinabalu Park Headquarters which is at an elevation of 1,563m. We braved the cold as we toured the headquarters, where most of the park’s facilities are located such as the visitor’s accommodations, restaurants, exhibit centers and park offices. The park offices are where one registers if they wish to stay overnight at Mt. Kinabalu or climb the mountain. Every year, dozens of tourists and KKians climb Mt. Kinabalu which can be done in 2 days. According to our tour guide, almost anyone with a basic fitness level can climb Mt. Kinabalu. In fact, recently, a woman four months pregnant was able to accomplish the feat. However, climbers need to be accompanied by at least one registered mountain guide, depending also on the number of climbers. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to climb Mt. Kinabalu, but I promised myself that one day I would go back and try it for myself. I’m sure the view from 4,095 m wouldn’t be too bad, not too bad at all.

Our next destination was Poring Hotsprings, also part of Kinabalu Park. It is an hour away from the Kinabalu Park Headquarters, and also a very scenic drive as one can see Mt.Kinabalu out of their window. Also, on the way to Poring Hotsprings, I spotted numerous hostels that would be perfect for the backpacker. I was able to take a quick nap which I definitely needed, as we were going to do the Canopy Walk. When we finally reached the destination, as we stepped out, the smell of sulfur was in the air. We were definitely in hot springs territory. According to the locals, the hot sulphuric minerals in the water have curative powers – I couldn’t wait to find out. Before going in the pools, we took a several hundred meter hike up into the forest to go to the Poring Canopy Walkway. Those who weren’t in shape sought refuge on the many benches placed along the way. It was quite the tough climb up. When we finally reached the walkway, we knew that all that hard work was worth it. The view from 41m high was amazing. On the walkway, one could stroll amongst the canopy of the Menggaris tree – known in Sabah as the King of the Forest.

Finally, after our trek back, we shed our sweaty clothes and took a dip in one of the private hot tubs. At Poring Hot Springs, one has the option of renting a private tub, located in its very own hut. Each hut can fit about eight people. It was nice to soak in the warm water, close our eyes and forget about all that walking – a great way to top off a great day trip.

Probing The Proboscis

The following day, everyone seemed very relaxed. It was either because the hot spring water really did have an effect on us or we were just happy because we didn’t have to wake up as early as we had to. We were off to Lok Kawi Wildlife Park, to see the Proboscis monkey and all the other local animals. The Proboscis monkey is known as the “playboy of the jungle” as they live in harems, where there are about four females to one male. Its distinctive, pendulous nose and unusual diet make it special from other monkeys. Upon observing the Proboscis monkeys, I could see the dominant nature of the male and the subservience of the females. The monkeys were also quite friendly, and definitely made a show for us while eating their lunch. Unlike their relatives, the orangutans, the Proboscis were fed carrots and vegetables, which seemed a little strange to me. The orangutans were the other main attraction of the zoo. The orangutan, which literally means “wild man,” is also native to Borneo. Another personal favorite were the sun bears who, for some reason, seemed to be posing for the cameras! They were acting especially frisky! The zoo also has a large aviary with an extensive selection of exotic birds, such as the hornbill and kingfisher. We all had a great time trying to spot the birds, which seemed to be hiding amongst the trees. All in all, if you are lacking time and want to see wildlife in Sabah, Lok Kawi Wildlife Park is a great alternative. Where else can you come face to face (behind some glass of course) with a Proboscis monkey, other than the jungle?

After all of our sightseeing, we were eager to do some shopping and exploring around town. We dropped off our bags at the hotel, ready to shop. Luckily, The Promenade Hotel is only a five minute walk to a number of shopping malls and money exchange centers. The exchange rate is about Php 13 to RM1.00. First, we visited the Handicraft Market, which is next to the waterfront. The market has an extensive array of souvenirs, ranging from t-shirts to frog skin purses. I was overwhelmed with the amount of stalls in such a small place but I couldn’t wait to discover what hidden treasures I could purchase here. Most of the vendors are Filipino, and even spoke to us in our native tongue. One shouldn’t hesitate to bargain here for the best price, and one should be patient and look around a bit before committing to your purchase. Across the street from the Handicraft Market is Warisan Square, a high end shopping center complete with boutiques with brands such as Quiksilver, The Body Shop and Lacoste. There are also several restaurants here, as well as a Starbucks. Of course, upon discovering the Starbucks, we just had to give in. Our next stop was Centerpoint Mall, the largest mall in KK. This mall has everything you can think of, from electronics to instant noodles to rainbow colored socks. We had an enjoyable time exploring the mall and ended up in the supermarket where we purchased Malaysian marinades and sauces for use back home, as well as packets of interesting looking instant fried noodles. As we walked home, laden with goods, we stopped by the market once again which was a completely different story at night. Dozens of street hawkers had set up little eateries where Malay, Indonesian, Chinese, Indian and Malay food was served. Opposite from this area, many of the vendors had set up grills with hefty amounts of seafood available for dirt cheap prices. I longed to eat in this place, but unfortunately, we already had dinner plans. We continued to walk around the market, taking in the sights and sounds and all the wonderful colors and smells. I purchased about 2 kilos worth of huge red chilies, so I could cook myself a nice beef rendang when I got home.

KK Nights

It was our last night in Sabah, and we decided that we needed to celebrate and see what Sabah’s nightlife had to offer. To our luck, the bars were also located near our hotel, also by the waterfront. There were plenty of bars to choose from, and we decided on Kock and Bull, apparently one of the most famous bars in KK. We ordered our cold beers and sat down at an outside table and took in everything – the cool sea breeze, the music and most especially, our trip. It was a great way to end things, and we reminisced about all of our great experiences. We all raised our glasses in unison, and drank to our trip to Kota Kinabalu. Finally, my wish for an adventure was granted. I had no doubts that one day, I would come back.