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IN THE MIST OF KOTA |
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I have always wanted to go on an adventure. When the opportunity came, I reached out and grabbed it. I was on my way to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia – the land of Mt. Kinabalu, the highest mountain between the peaks of the Himalayas and Wilhelmina in Irian Jaya. We departed late afternoon for Malaysia, just a two hour fl ight via Air Asia from Clark Airport, Pampanga. I had never been to Malaysia before and my heart was pounding with excitement. As we were about to land, I took in all the sights and vistas – I was going to be spending the next fi ve days in this place, with my itinerary jampacked with activities. I couldn’t wait for my adventure to begin. After a smooth landing, I was pleasantly surprised as we entered Kota Kinabalu Airport. Although small, the airport was quite busy and extremely clean. Everybody was pleasant and eager to assist this weak, skinny girl with her luggage. Upon our arrival, we were greeted by a smiling Bobby, who was to be our tour guide. After loading our luggage, we were whisked away to dinner, which was just as well – we were all starving! The rain began pouring heavily, but this neither dampened our appetite nor Bobby’s pleasant attitude. On our ten minute drive, he gave us a blow by blow of Kota Kinabalu and all the exciting activities he had in store for us in the days to come. I marveled at the city around me. Kota Kinabalu, or as the locals call it, “KK,” is quite the clean, modern city. Five star hotels were in our midst as well as a number of shopping malls. It is easy to see that it is one of the fastest growing cities in Malaysia. Introduction To Culture As promised, the tour guide took us to Pete’s Corner, a small local restaurant for breakfast. A steaming mug of tea quenched our thirst and need for caffeine as we prepared for a big day of white water rafting. We were then presented with a traditional local breakfast dish called “nasi lemak” which consisted of a red chilli paste with tomatoes, dried anchovies, peanuts and a cup of rice cooked in coconut milk topped off with a fried egg and fried shallots. The taste was unlike anything I’d ever had before, with its spicy saltiness that is perfectly neutralized by the rice and fried egg. The peanuts were also an interesting addition which made the meal pleasantly crunchy. After a filling breakfast, we were all pumped up for our white water rafting adventure down Kiulu River, about an hour’s drive away from the city. On the way to Kiulu River, we noticed several small brightly colored wooden shacks across the bay. When I asked Bobby, the tour guide, about them, he explained that it was where the sea Bajau lived. The name sounded familiar, and Bobby indeed confirmed that they were the same Bajaus that inhabited the Philippines. Sabah, is a melting pot of many cultures. Their population of a little over 2.98 million includes 30 different races and over 80 different dialects, each group having its own distinct culture, traditions, festivals and customs. The largest ethnic group in Sabah is the Kadazans/ Dusuns who inhabit mainly the West Coast. The Kadazans/Dusuns are a farming people and the largest producers of rice in Sabah although many have now gone into different professions. The Bajau people are divided into two: sea bajaus, who live on the east coast and land bajaus, who live on the west coast. The sea bajaus are often called “sea gypsies” as they are mostly sea nomads, only setting foot on land to bury their dead. The land bajaus, on the other hand, are known as the “cowboys of the east” as they are known for their agricultural prowess and horsemanship. Though there are many different cultures, all live peacefully as one. One Wild Ride The trip back into town allowed each of us to take a nap and relax for our day was not yet over. We were to take a brief tour of the city which included viewing several landmarks. The first one we came across was the KK City Mosque, a giant structure complete with majestic, azure domes glistening in the sun, a stark contrast to the white paint. The KK City Mosque is the largest in Kota Kinabalu and one of the most beautiful in Malaysia. Another interesting structure was the Sabah Foundation Building, a circular structure that is supported by high tensile and steel rods, about 30 storey’s high. It is one of the four buildings of its kind and is the tallest building in Sabah. During the Second World War, much of KK was destroyed, leaving few buildings such as the Atkinson Clock Tower, which was constructed during the British colonization. It was built by Mary Edith Atkinson on Bukit Brace (Brace Hill) in 1905, in memory of her son Francis George Atkinson who was the first District Officer of Jesselton, the former name of Kota Kinabalu. Another historic landmark is The Sabah Tourism Building, built in 1916. It was originally constructed to house the Printing Office and later on served as the building for many other different offices. Most of these landmarks can be seen atop Signal Hill, which provides a spectacular view of KK. Signal Hill is also a famous place for many trysts as lovers are often spotted canoodling on the benches. We saw two such couples and the sun set, we knew the reason they were there. Climb Every Mountain, Ford Every Hot Spring Our next destination was Poring Hotsprings, also part of Kinabalu Park. It is an hour away from the Kinabalu Park Headquarters, and also a very scenic drive as one can see Mt.Kinabalu out of their window. Also, on the way to Poring Hotsprings, I spotted numerous hostels that would be perfect for the backpacker. I was able to take a quick nap which I definitely needed, as we were going to do the Canopy Walk. When we finally reached the destination, as we stepped out, the smell of sulfur was in the air. We were definitely in hot springs territory. According to the locals, the hot sulphuric minerals in the water have curative powers – I couldn’t wait to find out. Before going in the pools, we took a several hundred meter hike up into the forest to go to the Poring Canopy Walkway. Those who weren’t in shape sought refuge on the many benches placed along the way. It was quite the tough climb up. When we finally reached the walkway, we knew that all that hard work was worth it. The view from 41m high was amazing. On the walkway, one could stroll amongst the canopy of the Menggaris tree – known in Sabah as the King of the Forest. Finally, after our trek back, we shed our sweaty clothes and took a dip in one of the private hot tubs. At Poring Hot Springs, one has the option of renting a private tub, located in its very own hut. Each hut can fit about eight people. It was nice to soak in the warm water, close our eyes and forget about all that walking – a great way to top off a great day trip. Probing The Proboscis After all of our sightseeing, we were eager to do some shopping and exploring around town. We dropped off our bags at the hotel, ready to shop. Luckily, The Promenade Hotel is only a five minute walk to a number of shopping malls and money exchange centers. The exchange rate is about Php 13 to RM1.00. First, we visited the Handicraft Market, which is next to the waterfront. The market has an extensive array of souvenirs, ranging from t-shirts to frog skin purses. I was overwhelmed with the amount of stalls in such a small place but I couldn’t wait to discover what hidden treasures I could purchase here. Most of the vendors are Filipino, and even spoke to us in our native tongue. One shouldn’t hesitate to bargain here for the best price, and one should be patient and look around a bit before committing to your purchase. Across the street from the Handicraft Market is Warisan Square, a high end shopping center complete with boutiques with brands such as Quiksilver, The Body Shop and Lacoste. There are also several restaurants here, as well as a Starbucks. Of course, upon discovering the Starbucks, we just had to give in. Our next stop was Centerpoint Mall, the largest mall in KK. This mall has everything you can think of, from electronics to instant noodles to rainbow colored socks. We had an enjoyable time exploring the mall and ended up in the supermarket where we purchased Malaysian marinades and sauces for use back home, as well as packets of interesting looking instant fried noodles. As we walked home, laden with goods, we stopped by the market once again which was a completely different story at night. Dozens of street hawkers had set up little eateries where Malay, Indonesian, Chinese, Indian and Malay food was served. Opposite from this area, many of the vendors had set up grills with hefty amounts of seafood available for dirt cheap prices. I longed to eat in this place, but unfortunately, we already had dinner plans. We continued to walk around the market, taking in the sights and sounds and all the wonderful colors and smells. I purchased about 2 kilos worth of huge red chilies, so I could cook myself a nice beef rendang when I got home. KK Nights |
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