A number of monuments which now lend Paris its international identity was met with scorn by native Parisians at the time of their construction. There’s no point trying to see them all in one trip—perhaps, half a day’s travel is more than enough to appreciate the architectural marvels of Paris and all that they offer.
I recently flew to Europe for the first time to attend the wedding of a friend in Stuttgart, Germany. Before coming over, I made a deal with her to take me to Paris. She agreed and even offered to take me anywhere as long as I attended her wedding. True to her word, we went to Paris a day after but on condition that we came back the same day. In short, we could only tour the city in 12 hours. Come travel with me and let’s see how far I can take you through.
7:00 AM. “Sleep-seating” in a seven-hour journey on an evening train, my friends and I arrived at Paris’ main train station. While the newlyweds waited in the long line of people buying their tickets to various cities in France, I tried not to get dizzy from all the busy Parisians rushing about by reading a brochure on Paris, looking on the map, and trying to figure out the fastest route to the sites we wanted to see.
The best way to get around Paris and to most parts of Europe is by train. There are over 2 million commuters who go to the Paris main train station everyday, about half traveling daily from the outlying areas to the city center, the other half from central Paris to the suburbs. The city’s subway system, the Metro, was opened on July 19,1900. Every building in Paris is within 500 meters of a metro station. The Reseau Express Regional (RER), inaugurated in the 1960s, connects the city with its outlying suburbs.
Paris is located in northern France on both banks of the Seine River, 145 kilometers from the river’s mouth on the English Channel. It owes its prosperity in large part to its favorable position on the Seine, which has been a major commercial artery since the Roman period.
8:00 AM. We started off at the far end of Avenue des Champs Elysees. Two kilometers long and 70 meters wide, it is the most famous avenue in the world. It’s a marvelous place for walking both day and night, and the line of trees on its entire stretch is an attraction in itself. I thought about Lance Armstrong and the pack of bikers racing on the Tour de France, one of the most celebrated sports events in this city, as we walked from end to end of the avenue, stopping every now and then at attention-getting structures such as the huge Louis Vuitton display and a poster-free glass waiting shed (making me wish we can keep our public utility services just as clean).
The economic activities of Paris overshadow those of any other part of France in importance and complexity. Many of the industries in Paris make luxury items like perfumes, furs, gloves, jewelry, toys, clothing, wooden articles, and other high-value goods. However tourism, by far, is the city’s largest source of income.
Looking far ahead, I could see a towering structure. We were in front of the Arch de Triomphe!
Perhaps one of the most photographed structures in Paris, the Arch is 50 meters high, 45 meters wide, and 22 meters thick. It is the world’s largest triumphal arch and was constructed as a tribute to Napoleon’s Grand Army and its 128 victorious battles. As I got closer to check the details, I noticed that the Arch is decorated with low relieves which evoke the battles of the French First Republic and Empire periods (1789-1815).
Designed by Jean Francois Therese Chalgrin, its construction began in 1806 and ended in 1836, 15 years after Napoleon’s death. Since 1920, it has sheltered the tomb of France’s Unknown Soldier (a soldier from World War I).
10:00 AM. We left Champs Elysees and proceeded to Champs de Mars to see the famous Eiffel Tower.
Dominating the skyline is the city’s most familiar symbol, the Eiffel Tower. Built in commemoration of the centenary of the French Revolution, it was the world’s tallest building until 1930. Its construction began in 1887 under engineer Gustave Eiffel. It was built to serve as a centerpiece for the Paris Exposition (World’s Fair) which took place in the Champs de Mars in 1889, but was met with vociferous dissension by Parisian literati who wrote, “We, the writers, painters, sculptors, architects and lovers of the beauty of Paris, do protest with all our vigor and all our indignation, in the name of the French taste and endangered French art and history, against the useless and monstrous Eiffel Tower.” It was nearly demolished in1909 at the expiration of its 20-year lease.
Dwarfed by the massive tower and lost in the crowd of various nationalities waiting in line to get to the tower top, I wondered why there were so many people queuing on our side, while the line on the opposite leg of the tower only had a handful of people, mostly youngsters. It turned out that there was only one elevator up to the top level and it was on the side where we were. Those who have the strength and will can climb the 1,665 steps to the top via the east pillar… As you might have thought, I decided to go back to the long line and patiently wait.
There are three levels to choose from in going up the tower. The first level costs €4.10, the second €7.50, and the topmost €10.70. My friends and I decided to make the most of our trip and paid for the ticket to the highest level, but also made a short stop at the second, intrigued by the guide’s invitation to check out the Jules Verne Restaurant, located some 125 meters above the street. It has its own private elevator access and gives diners an excellent view of the city stretched along the river. It is rated among the top restaurants in France.
From the ground to the second floor, the traffic flow was smooth. But from the second floor to the topmost part, there was a bit of pushing and cursing as the space becomes narrower (as you can imagine from the shape of the tower). Once at the top, I could say that few vistas are as magnificent and breathtaking—it must have been quite a sight as well to go up the tower in the evening with all the city lights on. Some say, however, that the best time to go is before sunset, about 8 or 9 PM, depending on the time of the year.
2:00PM. If you have seen the movie Before Sunset, then you must have seen that gothic-looking church by the river.
Situated on the ‘Ile de la Cite, an island in the Seine River dedicated to the Virgin Mary and considered to be the original birthplace of Paris, Notre Dame is a celebration of early and High Gothic architecture. The church is almost 900 years old. A little less than 200 years were necessary to build the church, which is said to be the “cathedral of the cathedrals.”
The rose windows inside were removed during WWII and reinstalled after the war ended. The cathedral overall is notable among Gothic cathedrals in that the entire edifice is faithful to the plans of the original architect. Also, the acoustic quality contributes to the success of this architectural phenomenon. I overheard one tour guide saying that Christmas mass is an unforgettable experience here, with thousands packing the cathedral to hear the choir singing carols in many different languages.
The feeling inside the church is unexplainable. There was something mystifying about the place, despite the noise, what with the monstrous gargoyles and chimeras standing guard over the gallery connecting the two towers.
Under the square fronting Notre Dame lies Europe’s largest archeological crypt. There you would see foundations and vestiges dating from the Gallo-Roman period to the 18th century.
4:00PM. Dominating Montmartre, one of the most beautiful districts of Paris, the Basilica of Sacred Heart, or Sacre Coeur, was built in the Byzantine style between 1876 and 1912, according to the wishes of the Catholic hierarchy. Access to the dome confers to you one of the most beautiful sights of the capital: Montmartre, the Place de Tertre and its multiple coffee shops and restaurants, and the secret convent at the foot of the Basilica, and even Paris and the northern suburbs.
Climbing the steps to the main entrance of the church reminded of me of going up to the Lourdes Grotto in Baguio, but the sight was much more magnificent! You can actually see the entire city of Paris from the bottom of the stairs; if you turn around, you get a very good view of the dome-shaped church. No one is allowed to take pictures inside, and the Mediterranean-looking caretakers will hush you at the slightest sound of chatting, so you can allow yourself to enjoy the solemnity of the place till peace and tranquility permeate in you.
MUSEUMS. Sadly, my friends and I didn’t have enough time to see the museums. Paris has a huge variety, covering everything from toys and clocks to sewers. Admission into the national museums is free on the first Sunday of every month, which means these are crowded then.
Besides the obvious classics such as the Louvre and the Musee d’ Orsay, other highly recommended museums include Musee Guimet, an outstanding repository of oriental art; the Musee du Pantheon Buouddhique, with its fine Japanese garden; and the Musee Carnavalet, which displays the history of Paris from the French Revolution. What I really wanted to see though was the Musee de la Publicite next to the Louvre, which displays a vast collection of posters, press releases, radio advertisements, and publicity films from the 19th century to the present day. I was told that the displays cover advertising for everything from soap to cheese and movies, and include many familiar images. Well, if you can’t get far and would like to see a miniature of it, try dropping by the Le Couer de France outlet in Glorietta and look at the wall on one side of the restaurant.
Whew, I actually felt as though I did the Tour de France—not on a bike, but on foot! It was getting dark and we had to catch the train soon. Sitting down in a café to get a quick bite, we realized that we hadn’t even enjoyed some of the al fresco cafés along the streets, nor taken pictures of the verandahs of some of the simple but elegant houses we saw. At least I made sure my eyes had a momentary feast on them.
8:00 PM. On my way back to Stuttgart, I tried to look back and relived in my mind the beauty of Paris. Towering, graceful, majestic, inspiring—these are but a few of the adjectives I can say about the landmarks and monumental sites of Paris. The Arch de Triomphe, Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, and Sacre Coeur are just a few must-sees. Veteran tourists will tell you that there’s no point trying to visit them all in one trip. I actually feel like I hadn’t really seen much (especially because I didn’t get to see the Louvre—sob!), considering the number of museums and galleries the brochure had itemized. Well, I guess I’ll just have to console myself with the knowledge that I will need to come back with longer time to explore and enjoy the City of Lights…Paris!
