The Sto. Nno has held denizens of revelers since the Spanish first arrived in the Philippines carrying the image of the child Jesus as its patron. The conquering troops of Miguel Lopez de Legazpi, upon landing in Cebu in April 1565, discovered an image of the Christ Child inside a burning house. Thhe soldier Juan Camus, a Basque, found it still inside a wooden box, which was done in typical Flanders style. Since then, the Sto. Nino has played an important role in daily life and in festivals where it is the center of attraction.
From Camiguin’s Lanzones Festival and the Sinulog in cebu, to the Ati-Atihan in Kalibo and the last culminating orgy of gyration in the Dinagyang in IloIlo, the shouts are the same: “Viva Senor Sto Nino Viva!!” The revelers bellow at the top of their lungs while the drums beat out a steady, throbbing 4-by-4 count that is uniquely festive. However, unlike the slow undulating gyrations of the lanzones Festival
and the thumping of feet in the ati-atihan, the Dinagyang has an entirely different feel to it. Celebrated for over 30 years now, the festivities are managed by the Dinagyang Foundation and culminate in the presentations by the various Tribu’s at the Central Plaza. There is an earlier presentation for the Kasadyahan where revelers from other islands participate, and their numbers grow each yer. This year included the TRibu Tutugan (Maasin), Tribu Kamunuan from far-off Antique, Tribu Mandurriaonan from Cebu’s Mandurriao National High School, Tribu Camando/Dalipe (Leon), tribu Banag (Anilao), tribu Manoggama (Maasin). Arising victorious in this year’s Kasadyahan was Tribu Ilongganon. Not to be outdone were the nest day’s main presentations from over 20 tribes, namely: tribu Angola, Bantu, Dagyaw-Ta, San Pedro, Pana-ad, Hamili, Baryohanon, Atub0Atub, Silak, Kalubihan, PAri-anon, Ilonganon, Himala, Ang Taga-Jaro, Pag-asa and Halimau.
Each tribe presents its dance before judges in five strategic locations within the city. The prizes are no mean feat, as the top prize easily exceeds P100, 000, along with the distinction of ruling the festivities for the next year. The revelry goes on from 9 AM to 4 PM in the Central Plaza are; all throughout the night, however, there is a myriad of frenetic action going on all at once. From Delgado Street and the Libertad to almost every major landmark in the city, the love or Sto. Nino is reflected in all activities. It actually starts more than two weeks earlier, with the ceremonial walk from San Jose Parish church to nine other churches in the city.
Throughout the next few weeks, novenas are offered while the reenactment of the visit of the Sto. Nino from Cebu to IloIlo is done posthaste.
Starting two weeks from the culminating date, Delgado Street becomes the center of food and music as the entire street is closed to vehicular traffic starting 6 PM. It is lined on either side with hawkers offering all manner of libation from oysters and squid, to beer and peanuts, to coconut juice and soft drinks, while a coterie of bands plays on loud and unfettered by convention and families across this sea of humanity, filling every available inch of space. Everyone is equal here regardless of where they studied or worked before; all you need is a big smile and you are welcome. The day before Kasadyahan sees a cacophony of novenas rising to fever pitch as each church makes it’s offering while outside, the throngs of people eagerly anticipate the fluvial procession from Fort San Pedro to San Jose and back. As dusk descends, Delgado Street once again becomes the center of attraction, with what seems like the entire population of the city descending to gorge on the victuals and table fare. As early as 4Pm the sounds of partying are everywhere along the main street leading to Delgado.
Kasadyahan is the day of reckoning when the different tribes start their revelry on the streets of the city. We just watched in awe while different floats started rolling down the main roads towards the Central Plaza where everyone was. Unlike past celebrations which were informal and casual affairs, appearing to be just one big party on the street where liquor and inhibition fly out and the masses dance along with the tribes while imbibing the brown bottle of choice, the Dinagyang now is highly organized ith the tribes’ paths cordoned off especially when they approach each judges’ station to ensure that the choreography of each presentation is preserved.
The black-sooted faces of the revelers are a permanent part of the party and have become a tradition that families old and new return again and again. Make the Dinagyang your festival of choice, to see the life of the Illonggos lived out in all its festival splendor.
